Information and unique products for Dogs, Cats, Rabbits and Backyard Chickens

Saturday, February 21, 2015

American Rabbit Breeders Association

                            American Rabbit Breeders Association, Inc.
The ARBA is an organization dedicated to the promotion, development and improvement of the domestic rabbit and cavy. With over 23,000 members throughout the United States, Canada, and abroad, our members range from the pet owner with one rabbit or cavy to the breeder or commercial raiser with several hundred animals. 

Each aspect of the rabbit and cavy industry whether it be fancy (for exhibition), as a pet, or for commercial value, is encouraged by our organization.

If you have questions about rabbits or the ARBA, please visit our FAQ page or call our office

Show Rules updates and other timely information may be found on our Announcements page. If you would like to visit one of our rabbit or cavy shows, visit our Shows page to find an ARBA sanctioned show near you.
Click here to visit our store!

Are you interested in rabbit breeding, but don't know where to start? If so, then the ARBA is the right place for you. There are numerous benefits to you for joining ARBA, including a copy of the Official Guidebook To Raising Better Rabbits & Cavies (free with the initial membership), a subscription to Domestic Rabbits magazine, Registration, Grand Champion certification and other privileges.

Feel free to explore this website and contact us if you have any questions regarding information or materials found within. We appreciate your visit and look forward to being of service to you.


ARBA Corporate office located in Bloomington, IL
American Rabbit Breeders Association, Inc.
PO BOX 5667
Bloomington, Illinois 61702
Phone: 309-664-7500
FAX: 309-664-0941
E-mail: info@arba.net

https://www.arba.net/

Thursday, February 12, 2015

How Much does a Bunny Really Cost?


How Much does a Bunny Really Cost?

Do your Homework First Before you get Suckered in by Cuteness!

Don't let the the adorable face of a bunny sucker you in. Many people are surprised to find out how much a House Rabbit companion actually costs. Rabbits are usually inexpensive to get, but that doesn't mean they are cheap to keep! Just basic one time purchases of supplies may cost $250, and the ongoing cost for one rabbit adds up to around $80/month ($960/year).  This does not include vet care for illnesses and emergencies which can be very expensive. 

We do offer money-saving tips, and there are ways to cut costs, however, if one of the reasons a rabbit appealed to you was the notion of a cheap pet, then I would take the time to reconsider. I can't count the times someone has posted in the forum about not being able to cover one cost or another.  So though there may be ways to cut costs, there are still ongoing expenses that can be hard on very tight budgets.  

Rabbits can live to be over 10 years old, so be ready for the a long-term financial commitment. The total costs are hard for many to believe, so we've broken it down so you can see how all the little stuff adds up.

Find out if your pocket book is ready and check out the list of basic costs that go into proper care of one house rabbit.  

 ONE TIME and/or OCCASIONAL PURCHASES
(Note: even some "One Time" purchases will eventually need replacing)
Cages/Pens = $150
(Average if using cubes or pens)
Most cages that are sold "for rabbits" are usually much too small for an adult rabbit, not to mention they can be double the average price above.

According to the House Rabbit Society, cages/pens should be at least four times the size of your bunny - more if confined for large amounts of time each day.(Rabbits should get a LEAST three hours a day of free exercise time) Remember flooring too for your bunny! Even if you use a pen, you'll still want to have some sort of water proof flooring like sheet vinyl or chloroplast to make cleaning up easy.  See Housing Examples

Food & Water Dishes = $12 ($6 each)

Avoid the plastic cheap light-weight bowls. Rabbits will accidentally AND intentionally overturn those.

Replace plastic water bottles annually.

Basic litter Box ($6) & Scoop($3) = $9 
Litter boxes can go up in price dramatically with screens, covers and protective edge attachments (for the diggers!).  Also, at some point, they do become smelly even when cleaned regularly, so you will have to eventually replace it.

I recommend a solid scoop since rabbit litter is not the kind that can be sifted (Never use clay, dusty,clumping type litters for rabbits)

Bargain Tip - Check out these Great Litter Box Ideas!


Hay Rack = $10

You can get some really neat fancy racks that keep the hay from getting everywhere, or buy ones that are more basic, metal or wood, but still work great for a hungry bunny!  
The rack in the photo is available in the BinkyBunny Store.

Bargain Tip - Cardboard boxes, wire baskets can double as hay racks. Make sure that any wood basket has not been treated. 
Hidey House = $12
Rabbits, being prey animals, like to to have hidey houses. This makes them feel safe and secure.   
Options include:
  • Make from safe woods (redwood is toxic to bunnies)
  • Get a plastic storage tub and cut TWO entry/exit holes in it. Be sure to sand off any sharp edges
  • Plain old  (non-dyed) cardboard can work too.
  • Purchase from the BinkyBunny Store 
Caution Note: If you use a pen, don't place a flat topped hidey house near the edge of an xpen, (doubles an escape launch pad).

Soft Bedding = $15
Make sure to have a flat surface and soft bedding in any cage/pen for a place to lounge. This can be anything from soft bedding from a pet store, a throw blanket, or a yard or two of fleece from a fabric store.

Caution Note: Some materials can shed fibers and cause serious digestive problems. Pull on the the material to check if fibers come loose easily.  Also some bunnies may eat the material.  You will need to switch to another type of bedding if that is the case.  (trial and error)
Toys = $15
Rabbits do play, and good rabbit toys cater to rabbity behaviors. Foraging, chewing, and exploring are top on the list. It's best to buy a few toys and alternate them to prevent boredom.

This will be more of a frequent replacement - may not be monthly, but at least every few months or so.
Check out BinkyBunny Toys

Bargain Tip - For some inexpensive homemade options check out our Bunny Toy Test.
Nail Care = $13.50
Nail Clippers   = 6.00  
Styptic Powder = 7.50

Learn how to clip nails in Monthly Maintenance
Brush and Comb = $6.00
It's important to keep rabbits groomed.  A once a week brushing (or more during molts) helps prevent digestive issues.
Our personal favorite is Hairbuster Comb
Cord Covers = $10
Rabbits will chew through cords which can cause damage to your stuff, fire hazards and can also seriously hurt your bunny!  Get your cords up and out of the way or cover them

There are many versions of cord covers. I use corrugated flexible tubing which you can find online or at your local hardware store.
Protect your stuff, learn how to Bunny Proof your Home


 
Small Carrier = $25  
Carrier styles and prices vary greatly! - From the basic (left) to fancy, colorful, and even air-conditioned. 

Avoid using cheap cardboard carriers as a determined rabbit will chew right thru those in just minutes.              
 


One Time/Occasional TOTAL = $247.50


MONTHLY COSTS
Hay = $15/month
Rabbits should have access to fresh hay available 24 hours a day. Hay is vital to your bunny's health. It provides the necessary fiber to move hair through the digestive system. Young rabbits under 7 months can have alfalfa.  Adult rabbits should get grass hays, like Timothy, Orchard, Oat and/or mixtures. The BinkyBunny Store provides a large variety of Hays.

Bargain Tip - If you live near a hay farm, you can save money by buying in large quantities and storing hay properly. Just make sure the hay you buy is for horses and small animals. Do not get cattle quality hay. 

Also note that it is not uncommon for hay in bulk to have a few dead crickets,and/or some debris, since the hay hasn't been sifted through smaller packages.  It is a natural product after all. So just sift as you go. Storing properly is very important: Hay needs to breathe to prevent mold.  A cardboard box or large laundry bag are best.  Plastic bins are okay if you get in and out of it a lot -- you can also drill a few holes throughout to allow for some airflow.


Greens/Veggies = $40/month 
 See Diet Page for appropriate amounts (avg 1.5 cups minimum daily)

Greens should be slowly introduced at about 3 months old


Pellets = $4.50/month
(Based on 10# bag that should last a few months) 
Recommended Nutritional Value
Fiber 18% minimum (20 -25% best)
Fat 1 - 2% max
Protein 12 - 14% max (long-haired breeds may need higher)
Calcium 1% max   
Avoid pellets that have dried fruit, cereal, seeds & nuts
Litter = $20/month 
Some of my favorite litters include Aspen Supreme, Yesterdays News and Carefresh. (Carefresh is a soft litter - perfect for bunnies, like Rexes, that are prone to sore hocks.) 
Stay away from clumping & dusty cat litters, corn based, and pine shavings as these can cause serious health risks. (compressed pine pellets are okay)

Bargain Tip: Horse stall pellets or Wood stove pellets are usually cheap and a great alternative to some of the more expensive litter brands. Just make sure the wood stove pellets do not have have accelerant added.
 
Pet Friendly Cleaning Products = $2/month 
Unlike other free range animals, rabbits are many times limited to a particular space, so it is very important to use to rinse well eve
n with pet friendly cleaners.

Bargain Tip -  White Vinegar/Water (50/50) is wonderful in combating urine stains and odor. Rabbits urine can have a strong ammonia smell and the vinegar mix combats these very well!  However, since vinegar is very acidic, you will need an industrial plastic bottle otherwise you may find that an ordinary spray bottle's nozzle may stop working.

I find using both the vinegar mix and Nature's Miracle works helps prevent remarking. 


MONTHLY TOTAL = $81.50


  ADDITIONAL COSTS  NOT INCLUDED IN COST CALCULATIONS


So if this didn't scare ya off, you might just be ready for the "cute" high.

Vet Care
The likelihood of any pet needing vet care in their lifetime is high. Rabbits are no exception, and it can be very expensive.
(Check out this Forum Discussion about some actual vet costs members had to deal with). Remember, you are paying for the vet, not the pet.  Not to mention that you need to make sure your vet is rabbit-savvy.  You may be surprised to learn that rabbits are actually considered "exotic".

A rabbit-savvy vet will have the extra schooling for "exotics" to treat rabbits.  The exotic title is due in part to  the the fact that rabbits react differently to anesthesia than cats and dogs. Also some treatments and antibiotics that would be safe for a cat or dog, can be deadly to rabbits. Dental issues are also common, especially in dwarf breeds, and this can be very expensive over time with regular check-ups, tooth trims, and/or surgeries.  This equals into hundreds to even thousands of dollars.    

Rabbit's hide illness very well, and by the time you notice something is wrong, it can be serious. Waiting to bring your bunny to the vet, due to lack of funds, can put your bunny at serious risk.  I recommend getting pet insurance (VPI covers rabbits $12/month). Be sure to save a few hundred dollars for emergency care. There are also credit cards, like "Care Credit",  that can only be spent on health care and vet care.    Not all vets take these, but many do - check with yours. For me this system works out well, as I can put the vet bill on the credit card, file a claim with the insurance, which normally pays out by the time my credit card is due.   Every little bit helps.

Lifesaver Note
- PLEASE get Emergency Vet references and figure out who is available around you that is ALSO an EMERGENCY vet. BEFORE an emergency ever happens.   It can be harder to find rabbit-savvy Emergency vets and rabbits can go downhill very quickly. You don't want to be spending precious time trying to do the search when your bunny may be fighting for its life.   Get a list of vet references, talk to them personally, and keep phone numbers and directions nearby so you can just focus on getting there in times of urgency.

Bargain Tip Adopt a bunny from a rabbit rescue or animal shelter.  Most are already spayed/neutered ($150 savings! --Can be even more depending on where you live).   And many shelters have already given their bunny a check-up and/or will give you a coupon for a free check up with in so many days after adoption)

Time
The value of exercise, love and attention is priceless. Unlike cats or dogs who will verbally announce their dissatisfaction, a dissatisfied rabbit may act out or just sit in his cage all day.  Silence does not equal satisfaction. Rabbits need freedom, exercise and attention everyday.
Treats 
Treats are definitely not a necessity, and you do have to be careful with how much you give a rabbit, but given in moderation, it's a great way to bond with your bunny. Plus, c'mon how many people don't give treats to their animal companions. It's a human thing! Just be sure to look for the healthiest possible.

Bargain tip: Fresh herbs like rosemary and mint and small amounts of fruit can make for a wonderful healthy treat.  Be sure to check the ingredients of store bought treats to make sure they are not too high in fat and sugar.
Grumpsters - Once in a blue moon, we get an email from an annoyed person who is upset by our cost estimates. Even with our Bargain Tips, they say they never spent much, and that they never had to worry about vet care. If that is true for you, consider yourself extra-thrifty, but extremely fortunate with health.

This Cost Page was created because of our ongoing experiences with unprepared people who found themselves in an ethical dilemma due to being financially side-swiped, (especially when it comes to rabbit health and vet care). 

No one told them what proper care entailed or that vet care can be expensive. Telling someone that rabbits don't cost that much only has the potential to do more harm than good down the line.  Our focus will always be on the individuals responsibility for their animal companion regardless of where their rabbit came from. There are many people that can benefit from understanding that a rabbit costs more than what they paid for it. 

So if this didn't scare ya off, you might just be ready for the "cute" high.

 http://www.binkybunny.com/HOME/Featured/tabid/244/ArticleID/1/ArtMID/983/How-Much-does-a-Bunny-Really-Cost.aspx

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Monday, February 9, 2015

NOW PET RABBITS



aww 

In 2014 we started covering the newest Pet craze - Backyard Chickens.   

This Blog began covering raising chickens, chicken breeds, chicken coops, and all other chicken subjects to help peak your interest in this growing field and then help you raise healthy productive chickens for fun and profit.  We found over a hundred valuable postings that covered subjects of interest from beginner to a seasoned backyard farmer. 
 
This year we will continue with our coverage chickens and, of course,  dogs and cats, however, we are adding the third most popular pet - Rabbits.  Look at the face below and tell me you are not in love with the idea of a Rabbit in your family's life.



Sweet little bunny!

Wednesday, February 4, 2015

15 Ways to Save Money on Chicken Feed



15 Ways to Save Money on Chicken Feed


how to save money on chicken feed

It’s a heartbreaking moment…

When you first realize your homegrown eggs are costing you more than what you’d pay for eggs at the store…

The current state of mass food production has duped us into believing things like milk, eggs, and grains cost much less than they actually do or should.

For example: Even though we have our own milk cow, our milk technically costs me MORE than it would to simply buy a gallon at the grocery store.

The good news? Saving money isn’t the primary reason we’ve chosen to own a cow. For us, it’s really about the quality of the product; our milk is fresh, beyond organic, and wonderfully raw. Not to mention owning a cow just plain makes me happy, so it’s a quality of life thing for us as well.

Chickens and eggs fall into the same category. While it depends on feed prices in your area, I’m still going to venture to say if you are looking for “frugal” eggs, you’ll probably be better off to buy eggs from the store. But, that’s not the reason most of us keep chickens, right? We love the bright yellow yolks, the satisfaction of watching the hens peck around the yard, and all that comes with chicken-ownership.

However, if you experienced sticker-shock the last time you walked into the feed store, take heart! There are plenty of ways to save money on chicken feed, AND boost your flock’s nutrition in the process. This list will help you get started—>

15 Ways to Save Money on Chicken Feed

1. Shop around. When I started calling different feed mills, I was surprised at the huge difference in prices. Just remember– cheaper isn’t always better, and if you are feeding an ultra low-quality feed, it can be very hard on your birds. Never sacrifice your chickens’ health just to save a buck.

2. Mix your own feed. I say this with a wee bit of hesitation, since depending on your situation, it may actually be MORE expensive to mix your own feed… However, I do suggest finding a recipe you like (all my homemade chicken feed recipes are in my Natural Homestead book), and then shopping around with local feed stores to see how much it would cost for them to mix it for you. Also, don’t forget to check with the local farmers in your area. Sometimes they’ll have older grains sitting around that aren’t fit for human use, but would be fabulous for your flock.

3. Buy feed in bulk. I buy everything in bulk, including my chicken feed. Often feed stores will give you a cut if you purchase a pallet of feed, rather than just a bag or two. Another trick is to split a large order with a friend. My one caveat is this: chicken feed which has been ground/processed/cracked, rapidly looses nutrition as it sits. It’s probably not a good idea to purchase a year’s supply at a time, unless you are using a recipe that calls for whole grains–they are much more shelf-stable.

4. Ferment your chicken feed. Fermenting your chicken feed greatly increases nutrition, and decreases the amount they eat. The same goes for sprouting.

5. Stop feeding free-choice. This is actually a topic with a bit of debate surrounding it… (Have you noticed everything causes a debate these days?) While I like the thought of allowing my flock to self-regulate, it can be a problem if you have lots of rodents. Rats and mice think free-choice chicken feeding is the best thing ever, and if you struggle with rodent problems in your coop, it’s likely your all-you-can-eat grain buffet is to blame. This problem can be avoided by only feeding as much as your chickens can eat in one day.
how to cut your chicken feed bill

6. Free range as much as possible. I realize this isn’t possible for everyone, but if you can, allow your chickens to roam around your yard. Not only will this greatly supplement their diet, it can also help to control bug populations, and keeps them from becoming bored. Plus, there is something so soothing about watching chickens scratch around your front porch.

7. Bring the yard to the flock, if the flock can’t roam the yard. When my hens must stay confined to their pen in the summer months (usually because they are destroying my almost-ripe tomatoes), I like to pick large handfuls of weeds or grass and toss them over the chicken-run fence. The girls definitely enjoy rummaging around in the green matter. I also like to take a bucket to the garden with me when I weed, and I collect all the weeds in the bucket and transport them to the flock as well. (Although I don’t have near as many weeds as I used to, thanks to my deep-mulching adventures!)

8. Ask for leftover vegetable and fruit scraps at the grocery store. Not all stores will allow this, but ask if you can have the wilted lettuce, squishy tomatoes, and bruised apples. Some folks also collect stale bread items from bakeries, but I personally avoid this. Many of the bread items sold in stores like donuts, breads, rolls, or muffins are made with heavily processed ingredients and additives. They might be okay for the occasional treat, but they aren’t something I’d recommend feeding on a regular basis– just as humans shouldn’t eat them as the bulk of their diet.

9. Grow your own feedstuffs. Grains, cover crops, greens, sunflowers, and various veggies are good places to start.

10. Grow duckweed. I haven’t tried growing my own duckweed yet, but I’m totally intrigued! Duckweed is a high protein plant that can be fed to a variety of animals, including chickens. If you’re a duckweed grower, please leave a comment and share your wisdom!

11. Raise soldier grubs. As tough as I like to think I am, I must confess I’m still not quite ready to tackle the whole concept of raising grubs/larvae for my birds. Do I think it’s incredibly smart? YES. Do I think it’s a fabulous way to create low-cost, high-protein feed? YES. Do I want to get up-close-and personal with maggots? Eh, not quite yet. If you’re braver than me, my chicken-keeping idol, Harvey Ussery, has a chapter in his book (affiliate link) devoted entirely to cultivating soldier grubs.

12. Offer leftover milk and whey. If you own dairy goats, cows, or sheep, you are familiar with the feeling of drowning in milk. When you’re floating in milk and have made all the homemade yogurt and mozzarella cheese you can handle, consider sharing your excess with your chickens. Leftover milk and whey are full of protein and most flocks will enjoy the treat. For an extra boost of probiotic nutrition, clabber your raw milk by allowing it to sit out at room temperature for several days until it begins to thicken. (Don’t attempt this with pasteurized milk– you will not have the same results.)

13. Save kitchen scraps for your flock. I keep a small bucket on my kitchen counter at all times and continually toss in bits of leftover bread, celery ends, carrot peelings, watermelon rinds, and more. It’s a feeding frenzy when I show up at the coop. My chickens have even been known to chase me down in the yard when they see me carrying any sort of white bucket. It’s insanely satisfying to watch your birds turn kitchen waste into orange-yolked eggs.

14. Sell eggs. Yeah, I know this isn’t exactly a way to save money on feed, but selling excess eggs is a wonderful way to offset feed costs, and make your chickens pay for themselves. Plus, there is always someone wanting farm-fresh eggs!

15.  Cull non-productive members of the flock. I know many of you keep chickens as pets, and that’s great. But if you are truly trying to cut costs, it may be time to turn non-producing hens into nourishing chicken soup. I know this thought might cause some of you to recoil in horror, but keep in mind this is exactly what great-grandma would have done.

More Chicken Resources

  • Natural Homestead– my latest eBook that’ll help you mix your own chicken feeds, create herbal supplements, fight garden pests naturally, and lots more.
 By http://www.theprairiehomestead.com/2015/01/save-money-chicken-feed.html
(This is not a paid endorsement or affiliate arrangement - we just like what she has to say on her blog )

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Wednesday, January 28, 2015

Why Raise Bantams?




Why Raise Bantams?
To give an honest answer to my own post title,  I wouldn’t. 

I wouldn’t raise bantams. You see, I’m a big chicken kinda-girl. You show me an Orphington, Brahma or a big ole Cochin and I wan to wrap my arms around it’s fat fluffy self and bear hug all that lovely chicken plumpness. “I love big chickens and I cannot lie.” (Did I go too far?…I went to far.) But that’s ok.because big chickens are just a preference, and that’s all it is. I’m the same way with dogs. I love big dogs. Big pudding like lugs who like to slobber and lay their big heavy heads in your lap begging for a scratch behind the ear.

But preference aside, I love all chickens and if we weren’t blessed with a good sized piece of property and a comfortable run, then bantams would definitely be a consideration. In fact…that’s kinda how Zach and I started out.

I had chickens throughout my childhood but when I went to college I had to phase out my chicken addiction because my parents weren’t keen on keeping them for me. So sadly, I was chicken-less for about 5 years. Dark times…dark times. But then Zach and I got married and decided that we were going to start a small flock. We were living at my parents and didn’t want anything too big because we assumed we would be moving soon and wasn’t sure what the future might hold as far as backyard size. So we built a small triangle coop and filled it with four small bantams.

It was perfect! Even though I had dreams of one day raising Jersey Giants or Sussex, those four chickens tamed the wild beast within me and I got my chicken fix until we were able to buy our farm. I loved those chickens dearly. In fact, our Silkie is still my favorite hen.

So even though I wouldn’t choose to raise bantams now-a-days, that doesn’t mean that they’re not a perfect choice for someone else depending on your preference and situation. Their smaller size might be just what you’re looking for in a chicken. Here’s 9 reasons to love Bantams and a few considerations in choosing this breed. 

1. They’re Adorable!
Ok, so maybe I prefer larger chickens but it’s kinda hard to deny that bantams are cute. Especially when they’re chicks!

2. And so are their Eggs!
You might not get a jumbo omelet from just one bantam egg, but a few might work. Many breeds of bantams lay on a daily basis and the eggs can be used in the same manner as a normal chicken egg. Depending on the breed, about 2 bantam eggs equal 1 medium chicken egg and they come in many shell colors. They’re adorable to display and make for interesting craft projects.  

3. Less is More
Bantams and their pint sized stature require less food, smaller housing and they create less mess. So they’re cheaper to raise and require less effort as far as coop building and keeping things tidy. Like a full sized chicken, bantams help with insect control, their droppings can be used for fertilizer and though they may be smaller than a full sized chicken, their eggs are delicious and nutritious.

4. They’re Great For Kids
Children love bantams because they’re a perfect fit for small hands. Children can easily handle and care for a bantam because they weigh very little. The equipment is also easier to handle. Bantams do great with smaller, lighter weight feeding dishes and less water at one time so little ones don’t have to lug heavy water buckets around and can still have the experience and responsibility of taking care of a pet.  

5. Perfect for Small Backyards
If you have a smaller backyard with limited space for a coop you can generally keep more bantams in the same space than you would full sized chickens. This allows for more variety among the breeds you keep.

6. There’s Lots of Variety
Bantams come in all shapes and sizes with interesting feather patterns and body types. Some breeds are referred to as a True Bantam. This is a breed that is naturally small. Sometimes these breeds can be less domesticated. Some examples would be the Sebright, Mile Fleur d’Uccle and the Serama.

A Miniature Breed (which will also be called bantam), is a smaller version of a normal sized breed. Some examples would be Bantam Rhode Island Red, Bantam Cochins and Bantam Polish breeds.
7. They’re Popular in the Show Circuit.
Many people enjoy raising bantams to compete in shows. It’s a fun hobby and a great way to learn about different breeds and meet other poultry enthusiasts.

8. Little Chickens with Big Personalities
Bantams are hilarious. Every bantam we’ve ever raised has had some sort of quirkiness. Our Silkie is a spazoid, our Polish was in another world, and our little Cochin was the friendliest chicken I’ve ever had. If you’re looking for entertainment then Bantams are your breed.


9. They Make Wonderful Mothers
Bantams, especially Silkies make wonderful mothers. They will attempt to sit on and hatch out anything they can or dye trying. For more on this read my post Mamma Silkie’s at it Again, where our Silkie hen attempts to steal on of our turkey eggs.


A Few things to Consider
Raising bantams, for the most part, is just like raising full sized chickens only on a smaller scale, but there area few differences that might need noting. Bantams can be mixed with full sized chickens. We mix ours and they do fine, but I have had experiences in the past where they do better separated. Sometimes the larger chickens just plow them over. Also, full sized roosters can try to mate with your bantam hens which can sometimes be dangerous.


Be sure to lower the food and water dish to the smallest chicken’s height or have two stations accommodating each size. Also bantams do better with crumble size food rather than pellets.
Bantams can also fly really well. If this is an issue perhaps consider a closed in run. They are also notorious escapees, squeezing through tiny holes in fences, or cracks in the gate.


Roosters
Ever hear the phrase “Mean as a bantam rooster?”…yeah me too. Ever wonder where those sayings come from? Well, as far a roosters are concerned this is maybe a gray area as far as the positive. I’ve had 5 Bantam roosters over the years and 4 out of 5 of those roosters were STINKERS!


To be fair, I posted a question to our readers to see what your experience has been and it was about 60-40. With 60 agreeing that bantams tend to have a size complex and make up for it with a LOT of attitude. The good thing about a bantam is that they’re so little that it’s hard for them to do much damage, though, I wouldn’t let a child around an aggressive rooster, bantam or not. So my advice is if you end up with a bantam rooster, spend a lot of time holding it, feed it by hand and hope for the best.
Crowing

Though their attitude might be big, a bantam rooster has a small crow. In my experience they do seem to crow more frequently but it’s usually quite a bit higher pitched and softer. It doesn’t seem to resonate as far. For example, I can hear all our roosters through the house even with the windows closed, but I can’t hear our bantam Sebright.


by Jennifer Sartell of Iron Oak Farm    See more at:  http://www.communitychickens.com/why-raise-bantams/?utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_term=CC%20eNews&utm_campaign=01.27.15%20-%20CC%20eNews


 

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Tuesday, January 27, 2015

Breed Highlight: Silkies

Breed Highlight: Silkies


If you’ve ever seen one of these furry-looking chickens wandering someone’s yard, chances are your first thought was something along the lines of “what is that thing?” Possibly named for their silky-feeling feathers, Silkies look very different from your typical chicken breed. They have black skin, extra toes, and look like they’ve had a run-in with the fluff cycle in your dryer

White Silkie bantam.
Although their exact origins are unknown, most of the earliest documentation of silkies comes from China and other parts of Southeast Asia. Chinese medicine incorporates silkie meat, bones, and feet, which are shown to provide more anti-oxidants than other poultry. Early European explorers such as Marco Polo wrote accounts of these strange little birds, describing them as furry, wooly, and having hair comparable to that of cats. Eventually silkies made their way to the Western world via the Silk Route, and were recognized as an official breed in North America in the late 19th century. Carnivals and other traveling shows in the 19th and early 20th centuries often advertised silkies as chickens with fur instead of feathers, or sometimes tried to pass them as the cross of a chicken and a rabbit. Today, they are a popular ornamental breed.

Silkies are often considered a bantam (dwarf) breed, though their sizes can vary and there is an official bantam silkie. In the past we have kept a small number of silkies, and the males were ‘normal’ sized while the female was very small, though still larger than our bantam chickens. Common silkie colors include black, blue, buff, and white, though more color possibilities do exist. 

These fancy birds also have a strange comb that resembles a large bumpy walnut (our white roosters had reddish purple combs), as well as bright blue earlobes. You may have to push back the fluff to see their faces

Though we do not have any silkies currently, they tend to be very friendly when handled regularly. The last rooster we had regularly followed me around the barnyard and would eat feed out of my hand. Our hen typically laid one small, cream-colored egg every 2-3 days. I have read that silkies are very prone to go broody, but never had that experience with our own. The silkie genes seem to be very dominant, though; we have a lot of extra-toed mixed breeds!

For backyard flock keepers, a silkie can make a great and fanciful addition. Families with kids will love these gentle little birds. They’re chatty birds, and the males can be a little loud, so beware if your neighbors aren’t happy with all-day crowing sessions. Hens are known to go broody very easily, and will raise a clutch of any eggs they’re given to hatch. Don’t keep silkies if your end-goal is eggs –silkie eggs tend to be smaller than most, and there are other breeds which are much better layers. It should also be noted that silkies tend to be much more gentle than other breeds and are prone to being bullied, so watch out for your fluffy friends if you have a large flock.

As a recap, here are the pros and cons of keeping silkies:Pros
  • Friendly and gentle, they make great pets
  • Prone to going broody and will raise any chicks
  • Great conversation starter!
Cons
  • Often bullied by other chickens
  • Not great egg layers, will go broody easily
  • Does not do well in wet, cold climates
Silkies make great companions and pretty additions to your backyard flock! 


Check out eFowl.com if you are interested in owning your first silkies this Spring


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Monday, January 26, 2015

The Art of Handfeeding Chickens

The Art of Handfeeding Chickens 

One question we often get asked by people planning for their first flock of backyard chickens is this: how do I get friendly birds? How do you train pet chickens to eat from your hand? In most cases, the answer is simple: Handfeeding pet chickens is something you almost never have to specially “train” them to do. Chickens love to eat, and if the food is in your hand, then so be it!

Even so, we do have some tips to share that can help if you’re brand new and starting from scratch (pun intended), or in certain other situations where handfeeding chickens may present some obstacles.

Situation 1: Your brand new baby chicks all run, terrified, from your hand!

This is an issue that often happens with people brand new to chicken keeping, who may not immediately understand how to interact with chickens. For some it’s intuitive, but others may relate more intuitively to other pets.

If this is what you’re picturing when you think of pet chickens, it’s easy to achieve!
If this is what you're picturing when you think of pet chickens, it's easy to achieve!
You can do it in a few short hours

Imagine, for example, a dog person trying to interact with a cat with the same sort of play dogs often appreciate. Dogs enjoy a vigorous scratch behind the ears and some roughhousing, while cats tend to prefer more gentle handling offered on their terms, which does not affront their dignity. To approach a cat the same way you approach a dog is to invite the cat to regard you as a mannerless philistine.



Similarly, even though chickens are friendly and can make very good pets—even seeking out your lap and begging for affection— you must first understand how to approach them and interact with them. A person new to chickens may beg for my help taming “wild” chicks that run from their hand whenever it’s placed in the brooder; they are astounded when I have them rushing to my own hand in a matter of 30 minutes. Or just five.

Friendly chick!
Knowing how to interact with chickens is key

“But I tried the exact same thing!,” they protest. When I reached in, they just ran away! What gives?”
I explain that there are a few key things to keep in mind when interacting with chickens:
Chickens are prey animals, in contrast to dogs and cats, who are predators. Dogs hunt in packs and instinctively cooperate with members of their social group. Cats are solitary hunters. Chickens are certainly bug (and occasional mouse) hunters, but a pack of chickens does not coordinate to hunt down a single prey like dogs do. Chickens are solitary hunters like cats (what bugs I find, I eat!)… but unlike cats, they also organize into flocks, their packs, for safety.

While the hens forage, the roosters keep watch and sound the alarm when a predator is spotted. If there is no rooster, a dominant hen may take that social role. Chickens watch other flock members for clues; when one startles and runs for cover, especially if she is high up on the pecking order, they all may take their clue from her and emulate her behavior. Compounding this issue is that chickens are more or less “programmed” to avoid danger from overhead. This means that when you lean over the brooder and reach your hand in from above, every instinct screams for them to flee. The sky is falling!

The solution? Simple enough. Don’t lean over the brooder, and don’t reach directly down into the center of a group of chicks. Sit down and sidle or scoot over to the brooder obliquely. When you reach in, reach in to the side nearest you, rather than toward the chicks directly. Then just leave your feed or treat filled hand in there a while so they can get used to you. When your hand doesn’t turn into a five-headed bird-destroying monster, the most dominant bird in your flock will eventually come over to investigate.
The thing is, you only need to charm the dominant bird. The others will all follow their comrade. Once that first bird starts eating, the others will quickly follow, and voila! You are handfeeding chickens. Wash your hands afterward. Repeat this process a few times over the course of a few days, and they will take less and less time to approach your hand. With friendlier breeds, you may have them instantly rushing you in just a matter of a few hours or less.

Situation 2: You’re adopting adult birds, and they are stand-offish.

“Taming” adult birds can be a challenge even to experienced chicken keepers. What makes it hard is that birds are unquestionably creatures of habit, and where your affection isn’t a part of their habit, it will take a while to establish.

handtaming chickens
Once it is established, though, it is amazing!

What makes it easy is that chickens are overwhelmingly food-motivated. They also develop associative memories, so as simple as it seems, to create the habit of friendliness, ground feed them. Don’t immediately worry about handfeeding. In other words, drop something delicious on the ground and let them eat it while you’re there. Be aware that (1.) sudden, vigorous “throwing” motions can scare them (death from above!); (2.) birds that are more timid may be put more at ease of you are crouching or sitting than if you’re looming over them; and (3.) use feed or treats that come in relatively small tidbits that they’ll have to forage, rather than bigger chunks they can grab and run away with.

Leghorn enjoying treats
Some birds might be more tempted by a container of treats, but scattering some on the ground is usually more instinctually satisfying to chickens

Scratch works well, and our Kelp and Bug Crunchy Trail Mix, designed for chickens is a bit higher in protein (plus it provides micronutrients they need). Another favorite is mealworms. Sunflower seeds or chicken “crack” also work well.

Whatever you provide, you should leave just before they’re finished; leave before they do… thus, the treats are only around when YOU are around. They will come to associate you with abundance and deliciousness. 
Once they come rushing to your feet when you step into their area, you’ll be able to move on to the next step. While you’re crouched or seated, drop some treats to get them interested, but leave most of them in your extended hand. Just as with the baby chicks above, all you need to do is charm the most dominant bird, and you’ll be handfeeding your chickens in no time. With adults who are set in their ways, it may simply take a little longer than it does with baby chicks.

Handfeeding chickens
What is that in your hand? Is it for me?!!

Situation 3: Your flock is not comprised of friendly breeds.

This is the most challenging of the three situations. The truth is that a wild Penedesenca, under most circumstances, will simply not become as friendly as a Speckled Sussex, Silkie, or Orpington. Some breeds tend to startle easily, and may be regarded as “flighty,” but they are not actually unfriendly. They may just require extra attention to avoiding movements that may trigger instincts to flee from danger. But other breeds actively avoid human contact.

The best solution here is… if you want friendly birds, be sure to choose friendly breeds. (Our book, the My Pet Chicken Handbook, has the most comprehensive guide to choosing the right breed for your situation you will find anywhere.) But if you’re in a situation where you already have some avoidant breeds and want to tame them… you can do so, but it will require patience. Your wild or unfriendly breeds will sometimes not get near enough to you at first to eat any treats you may drop. So, start out by dropping treats or feed… then stepping back to allow them to approach. Again, the dominant bird will usually be the first to take the plunge. Stay where you are, and be very still while they eat.

Training chickens to handfeeding
It’s unusual with most breeds, but sometimes working toward handfeeding chickens takes patience!

Over the course of a few days (or possibly a few weeks, depending on how flighty they are and how well your body language says “I’m no danger!”), stand closer and closer to the treats as your chickens eat. Eventually you will be able to stand among them. Then proceed as above in situation 2: crouch down, extend your hand, and wait for the dominant bird to approach.

This will likely take longer with the wilder breeds than it will for docile ones, but most chickens can be tamed with just a little effort.

In the end, you may find your birds alert to every move you make. As soon as you step out of the house, they will all come running to see what you have for them!

Hey, there! I'm ready for my treats, get corn cracking!
Hey, there! I’m ready for my treats, get corn cracking!

If you are really interested in raising chickens you must follow this blog http://blog.mypetchicken.com/2014/05/09/art-handfeeding-chickens/#more-5670

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