6 Pests That Can Wreak Havoc On Your Coop

Courtesy Catherine L. Walters/iStock/Thinkstock

6 Pests That Can Wreak Havoc On Your Coop (And How to Banish Them Naturally!)

Watch carefully for signs that mites, ticks and other nuisances are at work in the coop, and take immediate action to get rid of them for good.

 

 

By Audrey Pavia

Although your chickens may be the darlings of your farm, once a pest invasion strikes the coop, nurturing them back to health can be a headache. Chickens are keen at hiding signs of weakness, so you might not notice right away if they’re being attacked by biting lice, mites or flies. It’s important to take careful notice of signs that these poultry pests are at work and take measures to keep them and other chicken threats out of the coop. Here are six of the most common coop pests and natural ways to keep them at bay.


1. Ticks
A species of bloodsucking anthropod, Argas persicus, commonly known as the poultry tick or fowl tick, can discretely feed on your chickens. You’ll likely discover these pests by taking a close look at your coop—ticks hide in the crevices of the coop structure and crawl out at night to feed. Although it’s difficult to see ticks on your chickens, you’ll get a clue to the presence of these arachnids when you notice your chickens are reluctant to go inside the coop at night and seem agitated when they try to roost.
Treatment: To minimize the risk of ticks in the coop, caulk the crevices, which is where ticks hide and breed. If ticks have already taken up residence, use a knife to scrape out the ticks from every crevice and hose out the entire coop. Once the coop is dry, you can then fill all crevices with caulk.


2. Mites & Lice
Northern fowl mites (Ornithonyssus sylviarum) and chicken mites (Dermanyssus gallinae) can infest chicken coops, making your birds’ lives miserable. Like poultry ticks, they hide in dark coop crevices during the day and come out to feast on the blood of the chickens at night. They can cause chickens to stop laying eggs and to scratch and over-preen. You can see these tiny insects crawling around if you examine your chickens at night while they’re roosting.
Treatment: If your coop has been infested with mites or lice, scrub out the coop with a 3-to-1 water-to-bleach solution. Scrub coop crevices using a toothbrush, and dust the coop (and your chickens!) with food-grade diatomaceous earth. Give your chickens a tub with fine dirt or dust sprinkled with some of the DE so they can self-treat with therapeutic dust baths. In the case of a severe infestation, a vet may need to prescribe a medication, such as oral ivermectin.


3. Rodents
Mice and rats like to visit chicken coops and help themselves to the food. Lured by chicken feed, scratch and other chicken treats, rodents will leave their droppings behind and contribute to unsanitary conditions in your coop. They might even bring mites along, which can infest your chickens.
Treatment: Rodents are most active at night, so remove scratch and pelleted food in the evening and put it back in the morning. Surround your coop with tight wire mesh, attached to the frame, so mice and rats cannot squeeze through. If you already have chicken wire on your coop, reinforce it by putting the smaller mesh overtop.


4. Flies
House and stable flies are the most common fly pests to invade your coop. Attracted by fresh feces, they can cause terrible damage to chickens with open sores, so chickens that are being bullied and have missing feathers and wounds are most susceptible. Some flies even lay eggs on chicken’s vents if the chicken has diarrhea.
Treatment: It’s easy to keep flies at bay by cleaning your coop regularly and changing the bedding often. Monitor the health of your chickens, and intervene if one or more chickens are being pecked at repeatedly. Watch for chronic diarrhea, and treat with the help of a poultry vet. Practice natural fly control on your property by eliminating damp areas where flies breed, and by using sticky fly traps near the coop.


5. Ants
If you like to give your chickens fresh food, you’ve probably discovered ants in your coop. These busy scavengers are experts at locating fresh produce, no matter where it is. Ants are also drawn to broken eggs, and will swarm a coop not long after an egg breaks. While ants can’t harm a healthy chicken, young chicks or sick or injured birds can become victims of biting ants.
Treatment: To prevent ants, remove uneaten fresh food after the chickens walk away from it and clean up any broken eggs right away. If you find ants swarming in your coop, spray them with an all-natural kitchen cleanser or a 1-to-1 vinegar-water solution. This will kill the ants without harming your birds.


6. Predators
The deadliest pests to invade a coop, predators can decimate a flock. If domestic dogs and cats, coyotes, raccoons, or even bobcats find their way into your coop, your chickens can be seriously injured or killed.
Treatment: The best way to keep predators out of your coop is to ensure it’s secure. The coop’s mesh wire should be no larger than 1-by-1-inch and should be securely fasted to a wood or metal frame. Dogs and coyotes will try to dig under the coop to gain access, so a cement or attached wooden floor is essential to keep your flock safe. You can also bury mesh or wood to deter digging predators, but it needs to be at least 1 foot deep. Raccoons are dexterous and will open latches. Make sure doors are raccoon-safe by using a carabineer to secure them.


About the Author: Audrey Pavia is a frequent contributor to Hobby Farms magazine. She keeps a flock of bantam chickens at her home in Norco, Calif.

6 Pests That Can Wreak Havoc On Your Coop

Courtesy Catherine L. Walters/iStock/Thinkstock

6 Pests That Can Wreak Havoc On Your Coop (And How to Banish Them Naturally!)

Watch carefully for signs that mites, ticks and other nuisances are at work in the coop, and take immediate action to get rid of them for good.

By Audrey Pavia

Although your chickens may be the darlings of your farm, once a pest invasion strikes the coop, nurturing them back to health can be a headache. Chickens are keen at hiding signs of weakness, so you might not notice right away if they’re being attacked by biting lice, mites or flies. It’s important to take careful notice of signs that these poultry pests are at work and take measures to keep them and other chicken threats out of the coop. Here are six of the most common coop pests and natural ways to keep them at bay.

1. Ticks
A species of bloodsucking anthropod, Argas persicus, commonly known as the poultry tick or fowl tick, can discretely feed on your chickens. You’ll likely discover these pests by taking a close look at your coop—ticks hide in the crevices of the coop structure and crawl out at night to feed. Although it’s difficult to see ticks on your chickens, you’ll get a clue to the presence of these arachnids when you notice your chickens are reluctant to go inside the coop at night and seem agitated when they try to roost.
Treatment: To minimize the risk of ticks in the coop, caulk the crevices, which is where ticks hide and breed. If ticks have already taken up residence, use a knife to scrape out the ticks from every crevice and hose out the entire coop. Once the coop is dry, you can then fill all crevices with caulk.

2. Mites & Lice
Northern fowl mites (Ornithonyssus sylviarum) and chicken mites (Dermanyssus gallinae) can infest chicken coops, making your birds’ lives miserable. Like poultry ticks, they hide in dark coop crevices during the day and come out to feast on the blood of the chickens at night. They can cause chickens to stop laying eggs and to scratch and over-preen. You can see these tiny insects crawling around if you examine your chickens at night while they’re roosting.
Treatment: If your coop has been infested with mites or lice, scrub out the coop with a 3-to-1 water-to-bleach solution. Scrub coop crevices using a toothbrush, and dust the coop (and your chickens!) with food-grade diatomaceous earth. Give your chickens a tub with fine dirt or dust sprinkled with some of the DE so they can self-treat with therapeutic dust baths. In the case of a severe infestation, a vet may need to prescribe a medication, such as oral ivermectin.

3. Rodents
Mice and rats like to visit chicken coops and help themselves to the food. Lured by chicken feed, scratch and other chicken treats, rodents will leave their droppings behind and contribute to unsanitary conditions in your coop. They might even bring mites along, which can infest your chickens.
Treatment: Rodents are most active at night, so remove scratch and pelleted food in the evening and put it back in the morning. Surround your coop with tight wire mesh, attached to the frame, so mice and rats cannot squeeze through. If you already have chicken wire on your coop, reinforce it by putting the smaller mesh overtop.

4. Flies
House and stable flies are the most common fly pests to invade your coop. Attracted by fresh feces, they can cause terrible damage to chickens with open sores, so chickens that are being bullied and have missing feathers and wounds are most susceptible. Some flies even lay eggs on chicken’s vents if the chicken has diarrhea.
Treatment: It’s easy to keep flies at bay by cleaning your coop regularly and changing the bedding often. Monitor the health of your chickens, and intervene if one or more chickens are being pecked at repeatedly. Watch for chronic diarrhea, and treat with the help of a poultry vet. Practice natural fly control on your property by eliminating damp areas where flies breed, and by using sticky fly traps near the coop.

5. Ants
If you like to give your chickens fresh food, you’ve probably discovered ants in your coop. These busy scavengers are experts at locating fresh produce, no matter where it is. Ants are also drawn to broken eggs, and will swarm a coop not long after an egg breaks. While ants can’t harm a healthy chicken, young chicks or sick or injured birds can become victims of biting ants.
Treatment: To prevent ants, remove uneaten fresh food after the chickens walk away from it and clean up any broken eggs right away. If you find ants swarming in your coop, spray them with an all-natural kitchen cleanser or a 1-to-1 vinegar-water solution. This will kill the ants without harming your birds.

6. Predators
The deadliest pests to invade a coop, predators can decimate a flock. If domestic dogs and cats, coyotes, raccoons, or even bobcats find their way into your coop, your chickens can be seriously injured or killed.
Treatment: The best way to keep predators out of your coop is to ensure it’s secure. The coop’s mesh wire should be no larger than 1-by-1-inch and should be securely fasted to a wood or metal frame. Dogs and coyotes will try to dig under the coop to gain access, so a cement or attached wooden floor is essential to keep your flock safe. You can also bury mesh or wood to deter digging predators, but it needs to be at least 1 foot deep. Raccoons are dexterous and will open latches. Make sure doors are raccoon-safe by using a carabineer to secure them.

About the Author: Audrey Pavia is a frequent contributor to Hobby Farms magazine. She keeps a flock of bantam chickens at her home in Norco, Calif.

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HARDWARE CLOTH - THE BEST PROTECTION

Coop Security: Hardware Cloth vs Chicken Wire

Hardware Cloth is so important for proper protection of your flock we are repeating the post.

There is a big difference between chicken wire and hardware cloth. I now understand that chicken wire is intended to keep chickens confined to an area, not to prevent predators from reaching chickens.

 
When considering fencing options for the coop and run, as a general rule, the smaller the openings and the lower gauge the metal, the better security it will provide. 

Hardware cloth is more expensive than chicken wire, but  the initial investment is priceless given the heartache and financial losses it can ultimately prevent.    Recommended by many is a 19 gauge- 1/2" x 1/2" galvanized hardware cloth.

Chicken Wire
Chicken wire, also known as hex netting, is a twisted steel wire mesh with hexagonal openings that can be galvanized or PVC coated.1 
 

A hungry and determined predator,including but not limited to raccoons and some dogs, can tear through chicken wire with relative ease. It is not recommended as security fencing for chicken coops and runs.

Chicken wire is very flexible and can be good for making temporary structures designed to keep  chickens confined, but it will not stop predators from gaining access to chickens.



Hardware Cloth

Hardware cloth is wire mesh that consists of either woven or welded wires in a square or rectangular grid that is available in galvanized, stainless steel and bare steel.2 
 
It is manufactured from a stronger gauge metal than chicken wire, (the smaller the gauge, the stronger the mesh) making it a much better choice for flock protection. 1/2" to 1/4" galvanized hardware cloth is typically recommended for coops and chicken runs.

 

Hardware Cloth Installation Best Practices

1. Bury hardware cloth to deter diggers. To protect chickens from predators such as raccoons and dogs, hardware cloth should be buried at least 12 inches into the ground around the perimeter of the coop and run OR buried underneath the floor of the coop and run. 

2. Cover all windows with hardware cloth.

3. Secure hardware cloth with screws and washers. Staples are easily defeated by pushing or pulling.

 Portions taken from:  http://www.the-chicken-chick.com/2012/11/coop-security-hardware-cloth-vs-chicken.html

 and http://www.backyardchickens.com/t/306785/wire-mesh-on-coop-run-floor-to-keep-out-nasty-chicken-eaters

 

 

Predators are not that smart and will dig up against the wire fencing. 

If you've got hardware cloth buried in the ground a foot out from the fence, they will never be able to dig in.

Mat Midwest Air Tech 308200B 36-Inch-by-50-Foot 1/2-Inch Mesh 19-Gauge Hardware Cloth 

Gilbert and Bennett 308229B 48-Inch by 50-Foot 1/2-Inch Mesh Hardware Cloth

Recomended for Chicken Coop preditor protection
Use to cover window and screen doors, tree guards, drains, gutters, soil sifters, and more 
Uniformly welded for security and stability 
Galvanized after product provides extra durability 
Double zinc coating for maximum rust resistance and long life 
19 gauge, 1/2-inch by 1/2-inch mesh

Miller Manufacturing ACC1 Wire Cage Clips

• Use to assemble or repair wire cages, hutches, and traps
• Wire clip pliers available (2261-6346)
• Includes 1lb of clips

Wire Clip Pliers

• CAGE CLIP PLIERS WIRE ACP2
• EA 12/CS MILLER
• Wire Cable Clip Pliers
• Use to assemble hutches, pet homes and traps.

....

15+ Tips to Control Rodents Around Chicken Coops

A common misconception about chickens is that they attract rodents, but the truth is that rodents are attracted to food and water, not chickens. 

 

Rodents are a nuisance and a hazard for for backyard chicken-keepers and their flocks for many reasons and controlling them requires a multi-faceted approach.

 

PROBLEMS RODENTS CAUSE

• they eat chicken feed
• they eat eggs and baby chicks (rats)
• they contaminate feed, water & coops with droppings, urine and hair
• they are carriers of lice, fleas and mites and other parasites
• they can transmit an estimated 50 possible diseases, not the least of which is salmonella (fleas carried by rats were responsible for killing an estimated 100,000 people in the Great Plague of London in 1665)
• they can damage yards by burrowing and coops and wires by chewing
• they can injure chickens (rats are capable of chewing toes off roosting birds at night)
• they create stress for chickens, which often results in a drop in egg production

Burrow dug by some type of critter, could have been a rat,
although there was no other evidence to support that theory.

CONTROL STRATEGIES

 

DIY PVC feeder

Eliminate food sources

• Remove or securely cover feeders at night.

• Modify feeders to prevent beaking-out of feed. Adding dividers or chicken wire to the base of the feeder can accomplish this objective.

• Clean up spilled feed. If chickens beak-out food onto the floor from the feeder, clean it up before nightfall when nocturnal marauders are active. Purchase feed pellets instead of crumbles as they are more difficult to beak-out and easier to clean up than crumbles.

• Use a treadle-style feeder, which requires the chicken's weight standing on a pedal to open it.

• Never leave eggs in the coop overnight. Eggs left in nest boxes are a dinner invitation to rats.

• Store feed in a galvanized container with a lid securely in place. Rats can chew through feed bags, plastic bins and wood as easily as a person can open a bag of chips.

• Store feed away from the coop if possible.

 

Eliminate Easily Accessible Water Sources

Rodents will walk through and drink from traditional waterers, contaminating them with their waste and disease-carrying mouths, feet and fur.  Remove traditional waterers at night or, better yet, switch to poultry nipple waterers and keep the chickens' water supply disease-free. 

 

A digging predator much bigger than a rat was deterred by the hardware cloth buried 12" into the ground around the run.

Secure the Coop & Run

• Install hardware cloth all around the coop and run to prevent access by predators and pests. 
• Bury hardware cloth 12" into the ground all the way around the coop and run to deter burrowing underneath.

  Repellents 

• Bobcat urine. Research has proven that rodents instinctively recognize the danger associated with the scent of bobcat urine and and respond to it by avoiding the smell.  Strategic distribution of bobcat urine sends rodents seeking food elsewhere.

• Some essential oils such as balsam fir or peppermint, in very high concentrations may repel some rodents as the strong scent interferes with their ability to smell danger. A very determined rodent will not be deterred by peppermint oils, however. The problem with using any essential oil around chickens, is that they can be toxic to chickens if ingested and peppermint oil must be used in very high concentrations in order to be somewhat effective. Peppermint planted around the coop won't be effective as the scent is not strong enough to offend, alarm or deter rodents.
•  

Eliminators

• Clearly, poisons and most traps are far too dangerous to use around chickens, but rodents can be eliminated naturally by employing a good barn cat around the coop and run.
• An old-fashioned mixture of equal parts cornmeal and plaster of Paris kills rodents without toxic chemicals, but would need to be placed where chickens cannot eat it. Once eaten by rodents, it hardens in their stomachs, killing them. (this seems a rough way to go, I won't be trying this method)

• An electric shock device such as the Raticator, can be safe to use around chickens, yet deadly to rodents.

 by Kathy Shea Mormino
 Original Post:  http://www.the-chicken-chick.com/2013/06/15-tips-to-control-rodents-around.html

5 Ways to Keep Rodents out of your Chicken Coop

5 Ways to Keep Rodents out of your Chicken Coop

By Lisa At Fresh Eggs Daily

As it gets closer to winter, field mice and rats will start looking for a nice, safe, warm place to bed down. What better spot than a cozy corner of your chicken coop?

    Nice clean bedding, safe at night from predators and also a ready food source, especially if you leave feed in the coop.

   Traps and poison can pose a health hazard to your chickens as well as other animals, so instead I recommend these five easy, precautionary measures to keep rodents out of your coop:

1) Block any possible entry points into the coop - Mice and rats (as well as snakes and weasels) can get through a hole as small as one inch. Securely cover all the windows, vents and other openings in your coop with 1/2″ hardware cloth to prevent unauthorized entry.

 

2) Plant Some Mint - Mint is a natural rodent repellent.  Spearmint, peppermint,  wintergreen, even lemon balm which is also in the mint family, will all help deter mice.  Try planting some mint around the coop and run in the spring.  Sprinkle fresh or dried mint in the coop and nesting boxes year round. (Try my all natural lavender mint spray as a coop refresher and rodent repellent) CAUTION: Mint is very evasive and will spread rapidly if nor contained.  The use of several pots around the fence line or raised beds is recomended.

 

3) Get a Cat or Dog - Our cat and dog both do a great job of keeping our barn and chicken yard free of rodents.  Although neither has access to the run itself, their scent and presence in the barn and coop area make mice think twice about taking up residence in the area.

  

4) Don’t Leave Feed in the Coop - Remove the feed from the coop and run each night to remove that food source.  Keep feed in predator-proof covered metal, wood or plastic bins or containers.

 

5) Widen the Roosts - Did you know that rats and mice will chew on sleeping chickens’ feet while they sleep? Chickens sleep extremely soundly and leaving toes sticking out is just too tempting for rodents. Replace your roosting bars with 2×4′s with the 4″ side facing up so your hens’ feet are covered by their bodies from the top and the board on the bottom. This will also prevent frost bite.  (Unlike wild birds, chickens don’t necessarily need to curl their feet when they sleep, and actually prefer to sleep flat-footed)

 

Just these few adjustments can help to keep mice and rats from deciding your coop would make a perfect winter hideout for them.

~photo source: pinterest~

Join Lisa on Facebook at Fresh Eggs Daily and also Ducks Too.

http://www.communitychickens.com/5-ways-to-keep-rodents-out-of-your-chicken-coop/

A New Pet To Protect Your Family And Chickens From Ticks

As Lyme Disease, a tick born illness, has become more and more prevalent in the Eastern United States, many farm owners with livestock and family have turned to Guinea Fowl to help eradicate the danger. Guineas are especially known to immensely enjoy snapping up ticks out of tall grass where they tend to thrive and pose threats to dogs, children, and livestock nearby.

Guinea Fowl are also known for their alert behavior and vocal nature. Guineas are said to be effective at warding off hawks, rats, foxes and snakes with their cry; helping to protect not only themselves, but other chickens, ducks, or geese, on the farm that are prone to attack by predators.

Once raised from young, Guineas will pretty much live wild and roam free once mature, but since they are territorial, they will stay in close proximity to where they have been raised. Guinea Fowl also are an excellent bird to harvest for its meat, tasting almost identical to pheasant.

 

Guinea fowl- great for eating insects in the garden without damaging the plants. 

Good watchdogs too, if anything new comes on the place you hear about it/them! (this includes any snakes they see)

Photo by chris.murphy on Flickr

There are Brown, Buff, Buff Dundotte, Coral Blue, Chocolate, Lavender, Powder Blue, Purple, White, and the more common Pearl Guineas; and then there are the rare and exotic Vulturine and Crested Guineas.

Baby Guineas are called keets.

Their alertness and ear-piercing screeching make Guineas great "watch dogs."

Guineas will rid you of ticks, slugs, scorpions, fire ants, and many other pests.

Male Guineas select their mates, and they remain steadfast companions.

Hens can lay eggs as early as four months. Eggs are brown and small.

Guinea hens notoriously are indifferent mothers; therefore, incubators are used more often than not.

Hens don't screech like the males. Hens will utter two syllables sounding like "go back," buck wheat," or "patrak." Together they are a noisy bunch.

Original Post:   http://soonresources.com/hw2/guineahen.html

 Guinea hens are available through:

Guinea Fowl can be purchased in three forms. You can buy hatching eggs and try your hand at incubating, order day-old keets or even find adults if you look hard enough. The easiest option is ordering day-old keets, less time consuming than hatching your own and easier to acclimate to you and your property than adults.

Why Guinea Fowl instead of Turkeys or Chickens?
 

• Predator Resistant

They may not be as tame as chickens and turkeys, but this can be a good thing. Guineas are constantly alert for predators and once one is spotted they erupt into a raucous alarm that can send a hawk on its way. Guineas will still need a coop and pen to return to at night, this takes some encouragement and training at a young age. Placing a light in the coop helps as Guineas don’t like going into dark buildings.

• Pest and Weed Eating Machines

Guinea Fowl are excellent free rangers, perhaps one of the best in domesticated fowl. The Guinea flock will march through a property wiping out a whole slew of pests including but not limited to: snakes, rodents, ticks, scorpions, grasshoppers, crickets, locusts, beetles, ants, June bugs, spiders, weevils, grubs, bees, hornets, and wasps.

These high protein eating habits also can cut back significantly on feed requirements, that is if you have enough pests for them to eat. (Side note: if you raise bees on your property, make sure to keep them at least 1/4 mile away from your guineas).

Not only to Guineas love insects, but they love weed seeds, particularly grass, preventing the spread of said weeds into your crops or garden. They are also excellent defenders of fruit trees as they can fly up and take out pests up high.

The most popular Guinea in the United States is the Helmeted Guinea. It comes in several color varieties including Pearl, Lavender, White, Purple and many more.

Getting Started with Guineas:

1. You will need all of the same brooding equipment that is required for chickens. Guinea Keets will begin jumping very high at a young age, so it will be necessary to cover the brooder or they will start jumping right out.
2. Guineas need a coop larger than chickens, about 3-4 sq. ft. per Guinea. They will also need a covered run if you live in an area with snow, Guineas will not trudge through snow.
3. The best option for feeding Guinea Keets is Turkey Starter Feed, or a specific high protein game bird feed if you can find it. Later on adult guineas will prefer whole or cracked grains to corn.

http://www.fowlblog.com/2014/05/guinea-fowl/

 Guinea hens are available through:

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Nite Guard Solar Predator Control

Nite Guard Solar NG-001 Predator Control Light, Single Pack

by Nite Guard

 

Solar Powered Nite Guard Solar uses sunlight or daylight to charge. No batteries are ever needed. It will continue to activate during long periods of cloudiness.

The powerful flash of red light produced from this LED system will automatically activate at dusk and will force all night animals to flee the area. Based on scientific research, Nite Guard Solar emits a flash of light implying to all animals that hunt or feed at night that they have been "discovered" or are being watched. This is their deepest fear and forces them to flee the area.

A simple, but effective concept. Automatically turns on at dusk and off at full daylight. This weatherproof unit will last approximately 3-4 years.

Use the Nite Guard Solar to protect poultry and livestock against coyote, fox, bear, mountain lion, wolf, bobcat, owls, hawks, mink, weasel, and skunks, gardens (flowers, vegetable), orchards, vineyards against deer and raccoon, bird feeders, purple martin houses, fish ponds against raccoon, hawks, owls, blue heron, and bear, campsites, cabins, and property against bear, raccoon, mountain lion and even human intruders. 60-day money back guarantee, 1-year limited warranty.

Mount the lights at eye level of the animal to be stopped and face it away from the area to be protected. One to four lights will be required depending upon your application. It not motion activated but will flash automatically from dusk through dawn so night animals are stopped at long distances (500 yards or more) away. They do not come in to investigate but see the flash as a threat the instant they are aware of it.

Maintenance Free: Nite Guard Solar is completely weatherproof and will continue to function or years under extreme weather conditions. Blistering heat, below zero temperatures, rain, ice, snow and blowing dust/grime will not compromise the nightly function of this product

                

 

•  
• A constant flash of light to all animals that hunt or feed at night that they have been "discovered" or are being watched.
• Protects Gardens, Poultry, Livestock, Campsites, Property and much more.
• Solar powered and light sensitive turning on at dusk and turning off at full daylight.
• No switches, its all automatic just remove the black protective tape that covers the solar panel.
• Weatherproof 
•  

To Learn More or To Order:  Nite Guard Solar NG-001 Predator Control Light, Single Pack

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