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Showing posts with label EGG BASKETS. Show all posts
Showing posts with label EGG BASKETS. Show all posts

Thursday, January 22, 2015

Vintage Wire Egg Baskets For Sale


Vintage Heavy Wire Mesh Egg Basket with Carrying Handle - Painted Yellow 

Vintage Heavy Wire Mesh Egg Basket with Carrying Handle - Painted Yellow

For more information or to purchase:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/219637741/vintage-heavy-wire-mesh-egg-basket-with




Primitive Collapsible Wire Mesh Egg Basket with Carrying Handle

Primitive  Collapsible Wire Mesh Egg Basket with Carrying Handle 

For more information or to purchase: https://www.etsy.com/listing/219636409/primitive-collapsible-wire-mesh-egg?ref=listing-shop-header-1

 

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Saturday, August 2, 2014

Egg & Veggie Baskets for Gathering or Kitchen





Collect your eggs around the farm with this antique egg basket. It measures 10" by 7" and is perfect for any occasion. 

Antique Style Wire Egg Basket Shabby Cottage Chic




                    



Kitchen Craft Chrome Plated Wire Large Chicken Basket 30cm x 25cm


A fun yet practical way to store your eggs at room temperature.  30cm x 25cm chrome plated chicken shaped basket


Outdoors beneath the moon and stars

   Small Egg Basket Red and Black Crackle







Vintage-Style Wire Shabby Garden Chic Basket Home Decor









Antique-Style Wire Garden Basket Home Decor








Add a warm, country touch to your kitchen with a Farm Friend Wire Basket Rooster. Handy basket has a decorative topper shaped like a friendly rooster. The basket looks charming on a countertop whether you display it empty or filled with eggs, potatoes, fruit or vegetables. Approx. 9" x 8" diameter. Ceramic and metal.
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Friday, August 1, 2014

How to collect, clean, store, and hatch chicken eggs


Raising chickens for eggs? Let's talk about how to collect, clean, store, and hatch chicken eggs in this fifth installment of our Raising Chickens 101 series.Learn about collecting, cleaning, and storing chicken eggs in this Raising Chicken's 101 beginner series from The Old Farmer's Almanac.
Once you’ve eaten farm eggs, it’s hard to go back to grocery store eggs. Fresh farm eggs, free-range or not, are delicious, with bright yolks and firm whites. Give your hens ground oyster shell or a similar calcium supplement, available at farm suppliers, for strong eggshells.

Collecting Eggs

You’ll collect eggs every morning; hens cackling loudly are a sign or clue that they’re laying. I usually had another look in the afternoon, as well.

To see a collection of great egg gathering baskets follow this link

Chickens like to eat eggs as much as we do. Most egg-eaters learn on broken eggs and then begin to break eggs themselves. Chickens are opportunists and will pick at whatever looks edible. If you clean up broken eggs immediately and throw out any “eggy” straw or shavings, you can prevent egg-eating. A chicken that learns this habit can’t be cured, and others may follow her lead. You don’t want the chickens eating your eggs—you want them yourself!

You can tell what color eggs a hen will lay by the color of her ear. Yes, her ear. Birds don’t have external ears like humans do, so look for a small circle or oval of skin on the side of the head, next to the ear hole. If it’s white, your hen will lay white eggs; if it’s red, she’ll lay brown ones. There’s no difference in flavor or nutrition, but white eggs show the dyes more brightly at Easter!

Cleaning and Storing Eggs

Eggshells have a “bloom,” a natural coating that protects the egg from bacteria. Avoid washing if you can; instead, a wipe with a dry, rough cloth.

If the eggs have a little manure on them, you can wipe with a damp cloth for small spots. A really dirty egg can be submerged and scrubbed with a vegetable brush. Always use warm water; cold water will make the egg shrink inside the shell and will draw in bacteria.

Let eggs air-dry thoroughly before putting them away. (I liked to sort them by color, darkest to lightest, but that’s just me!)

Put them in dated egg cartons, and store them in the fridge on a shelf, not the door, where they will get jostled with every opening/closing. For partial cartons, I marked each egg in pencil with the day it was collected. Fresh eggs are good for a month in the refrigerator.

A cooking tip: To make deviled eggs, use week-old or older eggs, not this morning’s. The shells of really fresh eggs stick rather than peel cleanly.

Hatching Egg

A hen that is getting ready to nest becomes “broody.” This means that she wants to hatch her eggs. She’ll sit “tight” on the nest and resist having her eggs collected, whereas a nonbroody hen will let you reach under her to collect eggs. A broody hen may even peck or screech at anyone coming near. There are ways to discourage broodiness, but why would you? The hen does the work of hatching and raising, and you get free chicks!

Farm chickens can live 4 to 7 years and lay eggs for most of that time. Every year they go “off-lay” (stop laying eggs) for several months. This happens over the winter, when there’s too little daylight to trigger egg-laying. They’ll begin again in the spring.

Next, I’ll talk about what you might do when your hens go “off lay.”  See when your chickens stop laying eggs.

 See More At:  http://www.almanac.com/blog/raising-chickens/raising-chickens-101-collecting-cleaning-and-storing-chicken-eggs



Collect your eggs around the farm with this antique egg basket. It measures 10" by 7" and is perfect for any occasion. 

Antique Style Wire Egg Basket Shabby Cottage Chic




                    



Kitchen Craft Chrome Plated Wire Large Chicken Basket 30cm x 25cm



Outdoors beneath the moon and stars

   Small Egg Basket Red and Black Crackle






Vintage-Style Wire Shabby Garden Chic Basket Home Decor









Antique-Style Wire Garden Basket Home Decor








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Three Steps To Clean Eggs


Clean Eggs

Three Steps To Clean, Poop-Free Eggs

If you are a chicken-keeping gardener like me, you know that the second-best thing hens give you is eggs. The first best thing they give you is their awesome nutrient rich poop!
As grateful as I am for both the poop and the eggs, I prefer them to be gifted separately. Typically if the eggs I’m collecting are poop-smeared it’s a sign that the chicken-keeper (ahem – me) needs to step-up her daily coop maintenance.

1. Keep Paths to Nesting Boxes Clean

Although a hen’s poop and egg exit through the same hole – called the vent – they come from different internal channels. The poop comes down the intestine and the egg comes down the oviduct. The egg, as it exits, pinches off the intestine so it’s not possible for a hen to lay an egg and poop at the same time, or for poop to get on an egg inside a hen. (For an awesome explanation of all this complete with MacPaint-style illustrations, see How a Hen Lays Her Egg.)

Occasionally some hygiene deficient hen will lay an egg while her bum-feathers are full of poo and end up soiling everything in the nest box, but more often poop that ends up on eggs has been tracked into the nesting box.

A chicken feels the egg-laying urge and makes her way to the nesting boxes. On the way she steps through the giant pile of chicken poop under the roosting bars. Now she’s got a bunch of poop on her feet, and after she walks or flies into the nesting area, she steps on the half-dozen eggs already in the nesting boxes, tracking poop all over each of them.

Poop-free eggs are therefore typically the benefit you get for keeping the pathways to the nesting-boxes clear.

I have sand in the upper portion of my coop, which is where the nesting boxes and the interior roosting bars are. I really love the sand bed for how easy it makes poop maintenance.

First, the sand acts like kitty-litter, drying out and clumping around the chicken poop. Removing the poop is a simple matter of raking it down into the straw-based, composting deep-litter system in the enclosed run below. Second, the grit of the sand acts a bit like a welcome mat, and as chickens walk over it towards the nesting boxes, it helps to scrape debris off their feet.

If I rake the poop of the sand-bed daily, I almost never have dirty eggs. I once timed how long it took to rake the entire sand-bed area clean and it was 45 seconds, so I have no real excuse to not take care of it. Every coop is different, but whatever steps you can take to make sure the chicken’s natural pathway to the nesting box is poop-free will help ensure clean eggs.

One sure-fire way to get really poopy eggs is if your hens sleep in the nesting boxes or just above them. Do whatever you must to discourage this behavior. Make sure your nesting box has a steep roof to stop night-time roosting, and if necessary, block off the nesting boxes from dusk till dawn, until hens (typically young pullets) learn to sleep elsewhere.

2. Keep Nesting Box Material Clean

If poop or (worse, in my opinion) a broken egg soils your nesting box, deal with it right away. Lingering poop is just nasty, and tends to re-soil eggs over and over as hens step in it and spread it around. Thick layers of clean nesting box liner material is key.

My recent order of fruit trees came packed with bags and bags of shredded newsprint and scrap paper. Rather than recycle the paper, I collected it up and hung it from a couple of bags in the coop. Now there is a ready, easy-to-grab source of “top up” material for the nesting boxes.

I have also used straw, burlap, shredded junk mail (plain paper only) and wood shavings for the boxes. As long as the material is soft, shapeable and offers great padding to the eggs, you can use whatever is cheap and available. I strongly prefer biodegradable nest box material, so I can just toss spoilt material into the deep liter portion of the coop and let it compost. When the nesting box material starts to get that not-so-fresh quality, swap it out or top it up as appropriate. If an egg breaks in there, replace all the nesting box liner material.

3. Collect Eggs Frequently

The more frequently you can collect your eggs, the less chance that one poopy butt or foot is going to dirty a whole clutch of eggs.

I try to collect eggs twice a day – my daughter collects in the morning when she feeds and waters the hens, and I collect later in the afternoon when I need a break from being inside and go out to see how the farmlette is doing.

If any stragglers lay late in the afternoon, we will bring those eggs in at night when we lock the hens in for the night.

To Wash or Not To Wash

Sometimes, no matter how scrupulous your maintenance or diligent your egg collection, you will still collect a poopy egg or six. I’ve read some advice to discard any egg that has poop or dirt on it and, frankly, I think that’s silly. I’m not going to throw away a perfectly good egg that one of my chickens worked hard to make and push through her oviduct just because it’s a little dirty on the outside.

I prefer not to wash my eggs unless they are noticeably dirty because when a hen lays an egg, she coats it with a natural “bloom” to seal the shell from dirt and bacteria. When we wash off this bloom, we reduce the storage life of the egg (store washed eggs only in the refrigerator!) and actually make it more likely that the edible portion of the egg will be compromised with bacteria
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That said, sometimes the “Eww, I can’t store that,” factor wins out. When that’s the case, Step One (for lightly soiled eggs) is to gently buff or scrape off any dried poop with a dry nylon scouring pad or a clean dry dish towel.

Step Two (for more highly soiled eggs) is to actually wash the egg. Again, I consider this something of a last resort. Interestingly, the rules regarding commercial egg production in the United States require washing and sanitizing. In Europe, it’s the opposite: washing is forbidden. According to Forbes,
United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) graded eggs would be illegal if sold in the UK, or indeed anywhere in the European Union (EU). It’s all to do with the fact that commercial American eggs are federally required to be washed and sanitized before they reach the consumer. EU egg marketing laws, on the other hand, state that Class A eggs – those found on supermarkets shelves, must not be washed, or cleaned in any way.
“In Europe, the understanding is that this mandate actually encourages good husbandry on farms. It’s in the farmers’ best interests then to produce to cleanest eggs possible, as no one is going to buy their eggs if they’re dirty, ” explained Mark Williams, Chief Executive, British Egg Industry Council in a phone interview.
When I need to wash my backyard eggs, I hold a soiled egg under hot running water – about as hot as I can comfortably stand but not so hot as to start to cook the egg – and rub off any offensive dirty spots with my fingers or a soft clean dish towel.

The use of water hotter than the egg is important so that external bacteria doesn’t get sucked through the pores of the egg and end up contaminating the inside of the egg. For more about that, see this PDF from the University of Nebraska. Although commercial eggs in the US are sanitized with a dilute bleach solution, I opt not to dip my eggs in a bleach bucket. I like to live on the wild side like that.

See original post;  http://www.nwedible.com/2014/04/clean-poop-free-eggs.html


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