Another Rabbit Huch To Be proud Of

54" Solid Fir Wood Rabbit Hutch and Chicken Coop Like many of our other easy to assemble chicken coops, the 54" Solid Fir Wood Chicken Coop is made from fully treated and grooved Fir wood. This is an ideal coop for approximately 3 small hens or other small animals, and is made from natural insulating wood construction. The coop has many openings, including a hinged roof, for easy cleaning and ample ventilation. This compact chicken coop or rabbit hutch can fit in the smallest of yards, and will give your animals a comfortable living environment with an open lower floor for scratching and foraging in the grass. There are no nesting boxes or roosts in this coop, so it may be necessary to install these for comfortable chicken living. This lightweight coop can be moved fairly easily if you want to continually provide your animals with fresh grass on the floor of the coop. This will also help preserve and fertilize your lawn. All doors are secured with lockable slide bolts to protect your animals from predators. If you're looking for a compact, lightweight, and durable coop or rabbit hutch for your yard, this is a perfect option. With a droppings drawer, multiple doors, and a hinged roof; keeping this coop clean and comfortable for your animals will be a breeze.

	Product Facts 54" Solid Fir Wood Rabbit Hutch and Chicken Coop Light weight and easy to assemble and disassemble Ample windows and hinged roof for easy cleaning and ventilation Dropping drawer for cleanliness Ramp to lower level for grazing and foraging in grass Heavy duty galvanized wire and cage clasps keep your animals in and predators out!
	Price $169.00 with Free shipping within the continental USA

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Wooden Rabbit House and Chicken Coop

Little Lodge Wooden Rabbit House and Chicken Coop The Little Lodge Wooden Rabbit House and Chicken Coop is a smaller and affordable option for small laying hens, bantam chickens, or rabbits. We recommend keeping no more than 2 small hens or 3-4 small bantams in this coop, and we would recommend allowing for more room to free range during the day if possible.  This newly designed coop is made from fully treated and grooved Fir Wood, and like most of our other coops is treated with a water based preservative for longevity. A benefit to this coop is that all parts can be assembled and disassembled for easy transportation.  This compact coop and rabbit hutch will fit nicely into a small backyard and provide secure protection from predators. The lower level has an open floor for access to scratching and foraging in the grass while providing some extra space for moving around. Though this coop does not come with a built in roost or nest box, they can be added to the interior.  Also ideal for rabbits, this coop has a droppings tray with access from the front door of the hutch that will enable you to easily remove droppings from the upper level of the rabbit cage.   Provide your laying hens or pet rabbits with a quality living space that is affordable, durable, and most importantly - easy to assemble! The coop has plenty of doors and windows for ventilation and the felt roof will provide protection from most weather.

	Product Facts Little Lodge Wooden Rabbit House and Chicken Coop Easy assembly and lightweight for convenient mobility. Large hinged doors for easy cleaning Durable treated and grooved wood to withstand the elements Water resistant shingled roof Solid Fir Wood Construction $164.60 with free shipping within the continental USA ..

Returns must be completed within the product's 90 day warranty period. There is a 20% restocking fee on returned items

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15 Ways to Save Money on Chicken Feed

It’s a heartbreaking moment…

When you first realize your homegrown eggs are costing you more than what you’d pay for eggs at the store…

The current state of mass food production has duped us into believing things like milk, eggs, and grains cost much less than they actually do or should.

For example: Even though we have our own milk cow, our milk technically costs me MORE than it would to simply buy a gallon at the grocery store.

The good news? Saving money isn’t the primary reason we’ve chosen to own a cow. For us, it’s really about the quality of the product; our milk is fresh, beyond organic, and wonderfully raw. Not to mention owning a cow just plain makes me happy, so it’s a quality of life thing for us as well.

Chickens and eggs fall into the same category. While it depends on feed prices in your area, I’m still going to venture to say if you are looking for “frugal” eggs, you’ll probably be better off to buy eggs from the store. But, that’s not the reason most of us keep chickens, right? We love the bright yellow yolks, the satisfaction of watching the hens peck around the yard, and all that comes with chicken-ownership.

However, if you experienced sticker-shock the last time you walked into the feed store, take heart! There are plenty of ways to save money on chicken feed, AND boost your flock’s nutrition in the process. This list will help you get started—>

15 Ways to Save Money on Chicken Feed

1. Shop around. When I started calling different feed mills, I was surprised at the huge difference in prices. Just remember– cheaper isn’t always better, and if you are feeding an ultra low-quality feed, it can be very hard on your birds. Never sacrifice your chickens’ health just to save a buck.

2. Mix your own feed. I say this with a wee bit of hesitation, since depending on your situation, it may actually be MORE expensive to mix your own feed… However, I do suggest finding a recipe you like (all my homemade chicken feed recipes are in my Natural Homestead book), and then shopping around with local feed stores to see how much it would cost for them to mix it for you. Also, don’t forget to check with the local farmers in your area. Sometimes they’ll have older grains sitting around that aren’t fit for human use, but would be fabulous for your flock.

3. Buy feed in bulk. I buy everything in bulk, including my chicken feed. Often feed stores will give you a cut if you purchase a pallet of feed, rather than just a bag or two. Another trick is to split a large order with a friend. My one caveat is this: chicken feed which has been ground/processed/cracked, rapidly looses nutrition as it sits. It’s probably not a good idea to purchase a year’s supply at a time, unless you are using a recipe that calls for whole grains–they are much more shelf-stable.

4. Ferment your chicken feed. Fermenting your chicken feed greatly increases nutrition, and decreases the amount they eat. The same goes for sprouting.

5. Stop feeding free-choice. This is actually a topic with a bit of debate surrounding it… (Have you noticed everything causes a debate these days?) While I like the thought of allowing my flock to self-regulate, it can be a problem if you have lots of rodents. Rats and mice think free-choice chicken feeding is the best thing ever, and if you struggle with rodent problems in your coop, it’s likely your all-you-can-eat grain buffet is to blame. This problem can be avoided by only feeding as much as your chickens can eat in one day.


6. Free range as much as possible. I realize this isn’t possible for everyone, but if you can, allow your chickens to roam around your yard. Not only will this greatly supplement their diet, it can also help to control bug populations, and keeps them from becoming bored. Plus, there is something so soothing about watching chickens scratch around your front porch.

7. Bring the yard to the flock, if the flock can’t roam the yard. When my hens must stay confined to their pen in the summer months (usually because they are destroying my almost-ripe tomatoes), I like to pick large handfuls of weeds or grass and toss them over the chicken-run fence. The girls definitely enjoy rummaging around in the green matter. I also like to take a bucket to the garden with me when I weed, and I collect all the weeds in the bucket and transport them to the flock as well. (Although I don’t have near as many weeds as I used to, thanks to my deep-mulching adventures!)

8. Ask for leftover vegetable and fruit scraps at the grocery store. Not all stores will allow this, but ask if you can have the wilted lettuce, squishy tomatoes, and bruised apples. Some folks also collect stale bread items from bakeries, but I personally avoid this. Many of the bread items sold in stores like donuts, breads, rolls, or muffins are made with heavily processed ingredients and additives. They might be okay for the occasional treat, but they aren’t something I’d recommend feeding on a regular basis– just as humans shouldn’t eat them as the bulk of their diet.

9. Grow your own feedstuffs. Grains, cover crops, greens, sunflowers, and various veggies are good places to start.

10. Grow duckweed. I haven’t tried growing my own duckweed yet, but I’m totally intrigued! Duckweed is a high protein plant that can be fed to a variety of animals, including chickens. If you’re a duckweed grower, please leave a comment and share your wisdom!

11. Raise soldier grubs. As tough as I like to think I am, I must confess I’m still not quite ready to tackle the whole concept of raising grubs/larvae for my birds. Do I think it’s incredibly smart? YES. Do I think it’s a fabulous way to create low-cost, high-protein feed? YES. Do I want to get up-close-and personal with maggots? Eh, not quite yet. If you’re braver than me, my chicken-keeping idol, Harvey Ussery, has a chapter in his book (affiliate link) devoted entirely to cultivating soldier grubs.

12. Offer leftover milk and whey. If you own dairy goats, cows, or sheep, you are familiar with the feeling of drowning in milk. When you’re floating in milk and have made all the homemade yogurt and mozzarella cheese you can handle, consider sharing your excess with your chickens. Leftover milk and whey are full of protein and most flocks will enjoy the treat. For an extra boost of probiotic nutrition, clabber your raw milk by allowing it to sit out at room temperature for several days until it begins to thicken. (Don’t attempt this with pasteurized milk– you will not have the same results.)

13. Save kitchen scraps for your flock. I keep a small bucket on my kitchen counter at all times and continually toss in bits of leftover bread, celery ends, carrot peelings, watermelon rinds, and more. It’s a feeding frenzy when I show up at the coop. My chickens have even been known to chase me down in the yard when they see me carrying any sort of white bucket. It’s insanely satisfying to watch your birds turn kitchen waste into orange-yolked eggs.

14. Sell eggs. Yeah, I know this isn’t exactly a way to save money on feed, but selling excess eggs is a wonderful way to offset feed costs, and make your chickens pay for themselves. Plus, there is always someone wanting farm-fresh eggs!

15.  Cull non-productive members of the flock. I know many of you keep chickens as pets, and that’s great. But if you are truly trying to cut costs, it may be time to turn non-producing hens into nourishing chicken soup. I know this thought might cause some of you to recoil in horror, but keep in mind this is exactly what great-grandma would have done.

More Chicken Resources

• Natural Homestead– my latest eBook that’ll help you mix your own chicken feeds, create herbal supplements, fight garden pests naturally, and lots more.

 By Jill Winger http://www.theprairiehomestead.com/2015/01/save-money-chicken-feed.html
(This is not a paid endorsement or affiliate arrangement - we just like what she has to say on her blog )

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Why Raise Bantams?

Why Raise Bantams?

To give an honest answer to my own post title,  I wouldn’t. 

I wouldn’t raise bantams. You see, I’m a big chicken kinda-girl. You show me an Orphington, Brahma or a big ole Cochin and I wan to wrap my arms around it’s fat fluffy self and bear hug all that lovely chicken plumpness. “I love big chickens and I cannot lie.” (Did I go too far?…I went to far.) But that’s ok.because big chickens are just a preference, and that’s all it is. I’m the same way with dogs. I love big dogs. Big pudding like lugs who like to slobber and lay their big heavy heads in your lap begging for a scratch behind the ear.

But preference aside, I love all chickens and if we weren’t blessed with a good sized piece of property and a comfortable run, then bantams would definitely be a consideration. In fact…that’s kinda how Zach and I started out.

I had chickens throughout my childhood but when I went to college I had to phase out my chicken addiction because my parents weren’t keen on keeping them for me. So sadly, I was chicken-less for about 5 years. Dark times…dark times. But then Zach and I got married and decided that we were going to start a small flock. We were living at my parents and didn’t want anything too big because we assumed we would be moving soon and wasn’t sure what the future might hold as far as backyard size. So we built a small triangle coop and filled it with four small bantams.

It was perfect! Even though I had dreams of one day raising Jersey Giants or Sussex, those four chickens tamed the wild beast within me and I got my chicken fix until we were able to buy our farm. I loved those chickens dearly. In fact, our Silkie is still my favorite hen.

So even though I wouldn’t choose to raise bantams now-a-days, that doesn’t mean that they’re not a perfect choice for someone else depending on your preference and situation. Their smaller size might be just what you’re looking for in a chicken. Here’s 9 reasons to love Bantams and a few considerations in choosing this breed. 

1. They’re Adorable!
Ok, so maybe I prefer larger chickens but it’s kinda hard to deny that bantams are cute. Especially when they’re chicks!
2. And so are their Eggs!
You might not get a jumbo omelet from just one bantam egg, but a few might work. Many breeds of bantams lay on a daily basis and the eggs can be used in the same manner as a normal chicken egg. Depending on the breed, about 2 bantam eggs equal 1 medium chicken egg and they come in many shell colors. They’re adorable to display and make for interesting craft projects.  
3. Less is More
Bantams and their pint sized stature require less food, smaller housing and they create less mess. So they’re cheaper to raise and require less effort as far as coop building and keeping things tidy. Like a full sized chicken, bantams help with insect control, their droppings can be used for fertilizer and though they may be smaller than a full sized chicken, their eggs are delicious and nutritious.
4. They’re Great For Kids
Children love bantams because they’re a perfect fit for small hands. Children can easily handle and care for a bantam because they weigh very little. The equipment is also easier to handle. Bantams do great with smaller, lighter weight feeding dishes and less water at one time so little ones don’t have to lug heavy water buckets around and can still have the experience and responsibility of taking care of a pet.  
5. Perfect for Small Backyards
If you have a smaller backyard with limited space for a coop you can generally keep more bantams in the same space than you would full sized chickens. This allows for more variety among the breeds you keep.
6. There’s Lots of Variety
Bantams come in all shapes and sizes with interesting feather patterns and body types. Some breeds are referred to as a True Bantam. This is a breed that is naturally small. Sometimes these breeds can be less domesticated. Some examples would be the Sebright, Mile Fleur d’Uccle and the Serama.
A Miniature Breed (which will also be called bantam), is a smaller version of a normal sized breed. Some examples would be Bantam Rhode Island Red, Bantam Cochins and Bantam Polish breeds.
7. They’re Popular in the Show Circuit.

Many people enjoy raising bantams to compete in shows. It’s a fun hobby and a great way to learn about different breeds and meet other poultry enthusiasts.

8. Little Chickens with Big Personalities
Bantams are hilarious. Every bantam we’ve ever raised has had some sort of quirkiness. Our Silkie is a spazoid, our Polish was in another world, and our little Cochin was the friendliest chicken I’ve ever had. If you’re looking for entertainment then Bantams are your breed.

9. They Make Wonderful Mothers
Bantams, especially Silkies make wonderful mothers. They will attempt to sit on and hatch out anything they can or dye trying. For more on this read my post Mamma Silkie’s at it Again, where our Silkie hen attempts to steal on of our turkey eggs.

A Few things to Consider
Raising bantams, for the most part, is just like raising full sized chickens only on a smaller scale, but there area few differences that might need noting. Bantams can be mixed with full sized chickens. We mix ours and they do fine, but I have had experiences in the past where they do better separated. Sometimes the larger chickens just plow them over. Also, full sized roosters can try to mate with your bantam hens which can sometimes be dangerous.

Be sure to lower the food and water dish to the smallest chicken’s height or have two stations accommodating each size. Also bantams do better with crumble size food rather than pellets.
Bantams can also fly really well. If this is an issue perhaps consider a closed in run. They are also notorious escapees, squeezing through tiny holes in fences, or cracks in the gate.

Roosters
Ever hear the phrase “Mean as a bantam rooster?”…yeah me too. Ever wonder where those sayings come from? Well, as far a roosters are concerned this is maybe a gray area as far as the positive. I’ve had 5 Bantam roosters over the years and 4 out of 5 of those roosters were STINKERS!

To be fair, I posted a question to our readers to see what your experience has been and it was about 60-40. With 60 agreeing that bantams tend to have a size complex and make up for it with a LOT of attitude. The good thing about a bantam is that they’re so little that it’s hard for them to do much damage, though, I wouldn’t let a child around an aggressive rooster, bantam or not. So my advice is if you end up with a bantam rooster, spend a lot of time holding it, feed it by hand and hope for the best.
Crowing

Though their attitude might be big, a bantam rooster has a small crow. In my experience they do seem to crow more frequently but it’s usually quite a bit higher pitched and softer. It doesn’t seem to resonate as far. For example, I can hear all our roosters through the house even with the windows closed, but I can’t hear our bantam Sebright.

by Jennifer Sartell of Iron Oak Farm    See more at:  http://www.communitychickens.com/why-raise-bantams/?utm_source=Sailthru&utm_medium=email&utm_term=CC%20eNews&utm_campaign=01.27.15%20-%20CC%20eNews


 

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Breed Highlight: Silkies

If you’ve ever seen one of these furry-looking chickens wandering someone’s yard, chances are your first thought was something along the lines of “what is that thing?” Possibly named for their silky-feeling feathers, Silkies look very different from your typical chicken breed. They have black skin, extra toes, and look like they’ve had a run-in with the fluff cycle in your dryer


Although their exact origins are unknown, most of the earliest documentation of silkies comes from China and other parts of Southeast Asia. Chinese medicine incorporates silkie meat, bones, and feet, which are shown to provide more anti-oxidants than other poultry. Early European explorers such as Marco Polo wrote accounts of these strange little birds, describing them as furry, wooly, and having hair comparable to that of cats. Eventually silkies made their way to the Western world via the Silk Route, and were recognized as an official breed in North America in the late 19^th century. Carnivals and other traveling shows in the 19^th and early 20^th centuries often advertised silkies as chickens with fur instead of feathers, or sometimes tried to pass them as the cross of a chicken and a rabbit. Today, they are a popular ornamental breed.

Silkies are often considered a bantam (dwarf) breed, though their sizes can vary and there is an official bantam silkie. In the past we have kept a small number of silkies, and the males were ‘normal’ sized while the female was very small, though still larger than our bantam chickens. Common silkie colors include black, blue, buff, and white, though more color possibilities do exist. 

These fancy birds also have a strange comb that resembles a large bumpy walnut (our white roosters had reddish purple combs), as well as bright blue earlobes. You may have to push back the fluff to see their faces

Though we do not have any silkies currently, they tend to be very friendly when handled regularly. The last rooster we had regularly followed me around the barnyard and would eat feed out of my hand. Our hen typically laid one small, cream-colored egg every 2-3 days. I have read that silkies are very prone to go broody, but never had that experience with our own. The silkie genes seem to be very dominant, though; we have a lot of extra-toed mixed breeds!

For backyard flock keepers, a silkie can make a great and fanciful addition. Families with kids will love these gentle little birds. They’re chatty birds, and the males can be a little loud, so beware if your neighbors aren’t happy with all-day crowing sessions. Hens are known to go broody very easily, and will raise a clutch of any eggs they’re given to hatch. Don’t keep silkies if your end-goal is eggs –silkie eggs tend to be smaller than most, and there are other breeds which are much better layers. It should also be noted that silkies tend to be much more gentle than other breeds and are prone to being bullied, so watch out for your fluffy friends if you have a large flock.

As a recap, here are the pros and cons of keeping silkies:Pros

• Friendly and gentle, they make great pets
• Prone to going broody and will raise any chicks
• Great conversation starter!

Cons

• Often bullied by other chickens
• Not great egg layers, will go broody easily
• Does not do well in wet, cold climates

Silkies make great companions and pretty additions to your backyard flock! 

Check out eFowl.com if you are interested in owning your first silkies this Spring

 

Written by Mary F on January 26th, 2015. http://www.fowlblog.com/2015/01/breed-highlight-silkies/?utm_source=Silkies+Blog&utm_campaign=Silkie+blog&utm_medium=email

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The Art of Handfeeding Chickens

The Art of Handfeeding Chickens 

One question we often get asked by people planning for their first flock of backyard chickens is this: how do I get friendly birds? How do you train pet chickens to eat from your hand? In most cases, the answer is simple: Handfeeding pet chickens is something you almost never have to specially “train” them to do. Chickens love to eat, and if the food is in your hand, then so be it!

Even so, we do have some tips to share that can help if you’re brand new and starting from scratch (pun intended), or in certain other situations where handfeeding chickens may present some obstacles.

Situation 1: Your brand new baby chicks all run, terrified, from your hand!

This is an issue that often happens with people brand new to chicken keeping, who may not immediately understand how to interact with chickens. For some it’s intuitive, but others may relate more intuitively to other pets.

If this is what you’re picturing when you think of pet chickens, it’s easy to achieve!

You can do it in a few short hours

Imagine, for example, a dog person trying to interact with a cat with the same sort of play dogs often appreciate. Dogs enjoy a vigorous scratch behind the ears and some roughhousing, while cats tend to prefer more gentle handling offered on their terms, which does not affront their dignity. To approach a cat the same way you approach a dog is to invite the cat to regard you as a mannerless philistine.



Similarly, even though chickens are friendly and can make very good pets—even seeking out your lap and begging for affection— you must first understand how to approach them and interact with them. A person new to chickens may beg for my help taming “wild” chicks that run from their hand whenever it’s placed in the brooder; they are astounded when I have them rushing to my own hand in a matter of 30 minutes. Or just five.

Knowing how to interact with chickens is key

“But I tried the exact same thing!,” they protest. When I reached in, they just ran away! What gives?”
I explain that there are a few key things to keep in mind when interacting with chickens:
Chickens are prey animals, in contrast to dogs and cats, who are predators. Dogs hunt in packs and instinctively cooperate with members of their social group. Cats are solitary hunters. Chickens are certainly bug (and occasional mouse) hunters, but a pack of chickens does not coordinate to hunt down a single prey like dogs do. Chickens are solitary hunters like cats (what bugs I find, I eat!)… but unlike cats, they also organize into flocks, their packs, for safety.

While the hens forage, the roosters keep watch and sound the alarm when a predator is spotted. If there is no rooster, a dominant hen may take that social role. Chickens watch other flock members for clues; when one startles and runs for cover, especially if she is high up on the pecking order, they all may take their clue from her and emulate her behavior. Compounding this issue is that chickens are more or less “programmed” to avoid danger from overhead. This means that when you lean over the brooder and reach your hand in from above, every instinct screams for them to flee. The sky is falling!

The solution? Simple enough. Don’t lean over the brooder, and don’t reach directly down into the center of a group of chicks. Sit down and sidle or scoot over to the brooder obliquely. When you reach in, reach in to the side nearest you, rather than toward the chicks directly. Then just leave your feed or treat filled hand in there a while so they can get used to you. When your hand doesn’t turn into a five-headed bird-destroying monster, the most dominant bird in your flock will eventually come over to investigate.
The thing is, you only need to charm the dominant bird. The others will all follow their comrade. Once that first bird starts eating, the others will quickly follow, and voila! You are handfeeding chickens. Wash your hands afterward. Repeat this process a few times over the course of a few days, and they will take less and less time to approach your hand. With friendlier breeds, you may have them instantly rushing you in just a matter of a few hours or less.

Situation 2: You’re adopting adult birds, and they are stand-offish.

“Taming” adult birds can be a challenge even to experienced chicken keepers. What makes it hard is that birds are unquestionably creatures of habit, and where your affection isn’t a part of their habit, it will take a while to establish.

Once it is established, though, it is amazing!

What makes it easy is that chickens are overwhelmingly food-motivated. They also develop associative memories, so as simple as it seems, to create the habit of friendliness, ground feed them. Don’t immediately worry about handfeeding. In other words, drop something delicious on the ground and let them eat it while you’re there. Be aware that (1.) sudden, vigorous “throwing” motions can scare them (death from above!); (2.) birds that are more timid may be put more at ease of you are crouching or sitting than if you’re looming over them; and (3.) use feed or treats that come in relatively small tidbits that they’ll have to forage, rather than bigger chunks they can grab and run away with.

Some birds might be more tempted by a container of treats, but scattering some on the ground is usually more instinctually satisfying to chickens

Scratch works well, and our Kelp and Bug Crunchy Trail Mix, designed for chickens is a bit higher in protein (plus it provides micronutrients they need). Another favorite is mealworms. Sunflower seeds or chicken “crack” also work well.

Whatever you provide, you should leave just before they’re finished; leave before they do… thus, the treats are only around when YOU are around. They will come to associate you with abundance and deliciousness. 
Once they come rushing to your feet when you step into their area, you’ll be able to move on to the next step. While you’re crouched or seated, drop some treats to get them interested, but leave most of them in your extended hand. Just as with the baby chicks above, all you need to do is charm the most dominant bird, and you’ll be handfeeding your chickens in no time. With adults who are set in their ways, it may simply take a little longer than it does with baby chicks.

What is that in your hand? Is it for me?!!

Situation 3: Your flock is not comprised of friendly breeds.

This is the most challenging of the three situations. The truth is that a wild Penedesenca, under most circumstances, will simply not become as friendly as a Speckled Sussex, Silkie, or Orpington. Some breeds tend to startle easily, and may be regarded as “flighty,” but they are not actually unfriendly. They may just require extra attention to avoiding movements that may trigger instincts to flee from danger. But other breeds actively avoid human contact.

The best solution here is… if you want friendly birds, be sure to choose friendly breeds. (Our book, the My Pet Chicken Handbook, has the most comprehensive guide to choosing the right breed for your situation you will find anywhere.) But if you’re in a situation where you already have some avoidant breeds and want to tame them… you can do so, but it will require patience. Your wild or unfriendly breeds will sometimes not get near enough to you at first to eat any treats you may drop. So, start out by dropping treats or feed… then stepping back to allow them to approach. Again, the dominant bird will usually be the first to take the plunge. Stay where you are, and be very still while they eat.

It’s unusual with most breeds, but sometimes working toward handfeeding chickens takes patience!

Over the course of a few days (or possibly a few weeks, depending on how flighty they are and how well your body language says “I’m no danger!”), stand closer and closer to the treats as your chickens eat. Eventually you will be able to stand among them. Then proceed as above in situation 2: crouch down, extend your hand, and wait for the dominant bird to approach.

This will likely take longer with the wilder breeds than it will for docile ones, but most chickens can be tamed with just a little effort.

In the end, you may find your birds alert to every move you make. As soon as you step out of the house, they will all come running to see what you have for them!

Hey, there! I’m ready for my treats, get corn cracking!

If you are really interested in raising chickens you must follow this blog http://blog.mypetchicken.com/2014/05/09/art-handfeeding-chickens/#more-5670

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Vintage Wire Egg Baskets For Sale

 

Vintage Heavy Wire Mesh Egg Basket with Carrying Handle - Painted Yellow

For more information or to purchase:

https://www.etsy.com/listing/219637741/vintage-heavy-wire-mesh-egg-basket-with

Primitive Collapsible Wire Mesh Egg Basket with Carrying Handle

 

For more information or to purchase: https://www.etsy.com/listing/219636409/primitive-collapsible-wire-mesh-egg?ref=listing-shop-header-1

 

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Top 10 chicken questions answered

It’s getting easier for people outside the backyard poultry community to understand why so many of us choose to dedicate a portion of our lives to raising and caring for chickens. I don’t get the same reaction I used to from suburbanites when they find out I raise chickens through casual conversation. Instead most people end up telling me about someone in their neighborhood that is raising a few chickens. In fact, it has become quite easy to influence outsiders to take part in this “unusual” hobby simply by telling a story or two

This hilarious sign was posted shortly after Byron’s dog was chased around the backyard by one of his chickens.

about our beloved chickens and their unforgettable antics.

Let’s face it, stories about dogs and cats are about as interesting as a glass of warm water and dry toast for dinner. Who hasn’t heard the one about the dog that chased its tail? It’s not that it wasn’t funny but I suspect your audience has seen this behavior before. Now tell the story about the rooster that chased your screaming mother-in-law around the backyard, suddenly people become very interested in what you are saying.

You’ll still have plenty of opportunity to talk about your dog when you raise chickens as the two can produce some entertaining and crowd pleasing stories, provided the story doesn’t end with the dog eating the chicken. I remember sitting on he back porch with my wife enjoying an ice cold drink when my 85-pound dog came running across the backyard with his tail between his legs and a Buff Orpington roosting on its back while a Barred Rock chased behind. The chicken on his back quickly jumped off as Farley (my dog) crawled underneath my chair for protection and some comforting. I’m not sure how that all got started but since then we have replaced our “beware of dog” sign with an “Area Patrolled by Attack Chicken” sign.

A good story doesn’t always have to involve the chicken but rather the chicken coop. I love to tell the story about my 2-year-old son getting his head stuck inside our chicken tractor yelling “No! No!” as the chickens pecked and pulled at his curly blonde hair. Trust me; you don’t have to make this stuff up! Raise chickens long enough (a few weeks will do) and you won’t have to look very hard to find a hilarious story to share.

But it’s not just the stories we share that make people from the small land owner to the urban adventurer commit to sharing their yard with a few chickens. It’s not just the fact that more people realize the health benefits of eggs from backyard hens, not to mention the more humane lifestyle they are exposed to. Could it then be they are looking for the blood pressure lowering effects associated with “pet” ownership that we keep reading about? Or could it be a way for people to escape back to the good old days by incorporating some of the sights and sounds we experienced during visits to Grandma and Grandpa’s farm? The real answer is most—or all—of the above.

After Byron promised his dog Farley unlimited eggs to snack on, Farley raised his paw and swore not to hurt the chickens. Byron does not recommend leaving chickens and dogs unsupervised but he does enjoy watching the playful interaction between the two while closely monitored.

Most people end up raising chickens after one of three occurrences: 1) Intensive research suggested the positive aspects of raising chickens outweighed any possible negatives, 2) Dad has trouble saying no to his kids and came home from a recent trip to the feed store with six chickens, a toy horse collection, and two bags of candy but forgot the new shovel he went there for, or 3) Drinking beer while looking at poultry-related websites.

Conversely, I think the reasons many people don’t raise chickens is because they believe chickens are strictly farm animals that require a lot of space, feel they don’t have access to the types of supplies required, or stay completely sober when surfing the internet. In reality you don’t need any more room in your backyard for a few chickens than you do for a dog and you can order a chicken coop, chicken feed, and most other poultry supplies online 24 hours a day.

But before you wake up with a hangover and an online order of Barred Rock chicks, let me at least bring forth some answers to the questions that most people ask before jumping into the backyard poultry arena. Keep in mind there are experts in the world of poultry like Gail Damerow, who have written books like The Chicken Health Handbook and Storey’s Guide to Raising Chickens that can serve as guides into your new endeavor. However, although I am not qualified to be considered an expert, I did manage to read both books and have raised, or at least eaten, chickens most of my life, and spent the last 17 years in the poultry supply business, so I should be able to provide some unique insight into the world of backyard chickens.

To help do so, I have polled the operators at Randall Burkey Company who sell poultry equipment and live chicks on a daily basis and asked them to help me come up with the top 10 questions asked by people who are either planning to raise chickens or are new to raising chickens. Hopefully these turn out to be some of the same questions you might need answers to. Remember, no question is a dumb question if you don’t know the answer. I remind myself of that whenever I talk to a mechanic. “The battery’s dead! Doesn’t my car run off gasoline?”

Chickens enjoy foraging for their food and this economical time-release feeder offers an easy solution when there is less foraging material available.

So here are the top 10 questions:

#1. Do I need a rooster for my hens to lay eggs?
Okay, stop laughing! You didn’t always know the answer to this question. I will tell you that this is the most commonly asked question we get, so no one should be embarrassed. The answer is no, unless you want chicks. If you’re just looking for eggs to eat and/or some nice yard pets, hens minus the rooster can provide you with plenty of farm fresh eggs without a single crow to wake you up in the morning.

#2. How long do chickens live?
The life expectancy of most standard chicken breeds shielded from predators and deep fryers can range from 8 to 15 years. There are many reports of pet chickens living as long as 20 years! With the increasing popularity of raising chickens as pets, I imagine someone will develop a new line of chicken coops such as nursing coops or assisted living coops for the growing population of elderly chickens. All joking aside, chickens are very hardy animals that rarely need a trip to a veterinarian, no matter how long they live.

#3. What do I need when my chicks arrive?
Boil some water and grab some clean towels! Isn’t this what we heard on television when the mother went into labor? However, with newborn chickens, we only need to boil water if we plan on cooking them. What you do need is a way to keep your chicks warm without cooking them. Depending on the number of chicks and your budget there are several options. Most commonly used and most economical is a single lamp infrared brooder with a 250-watt red glass infrared bulb. Of course you will need a perimeter to contain the chicks inside the heated area —something as simple as an 18″ high corrugated paper chick corral will get the job done. Place a small thermometer inside to ensure the correct temperature of 95° F is maintained, dropping 5° each week thereafter. A proper chick feeder and waterer is also necessary and you should provide ample space for the number of chicks inside. Pine shavings will work well as bedding and although there are many other options, you want to avoid using material such as newspaper that does not provide stable footing.

#4. At what age do hens start laying and how many eggs will they lay?
Typically hens will start to lay when they are around 5- 6 months of age and will lay approximately 200 to 300 eggs annually, based on the breed type. Breeds like Rhode Island Reds, Golden Sex Links, and White Leghorns are considered some of the most prolific egg layers. Peak production generally occurs at two years of age and slowly declines thereafter.

The Egg Cart’n Mini Byron uses in his backyard has a total of 24 square feet of living space. It will easily house 4-6 hens or 2 chickens and one 2-year-old boy.

#5. How much feed do chickens eat?
The amount of feed a chicken will consume varies dramatically based on breed type, feed quality, climate, and other variables that make it difficult to provide one good answer. However, a typical laying hen will consume around 4 to 6 ounces of feed each day with an increase during cold months and a decrease during warm months.
Many types of feeders available today are designed to prevent feed from being scratched out to reduce wasted feed and lower your overall feed bill. Depending on where you are located, your chickens can nearly survive strictly by foraging for their food on a good size piece of property. Foraging for food is really the chickens’ preferred method of eating because it makes life much more interesting for them as opposed to standing around the all-you-can-eat food trough.
Even during the leaner times you can promote natural foraging behavior by hanging a “Free Range” feeder in your yard. With a timer that can be set to release varying amounts of pelletized feed, you can provide your chickens the sustenance they require while still allowing them the opportunity to act upon their natural instincts.

#6. How big does my chicken coop need to be?
Because chickens spend most of their active time outside of the chicken coop, generally 2 – 3 square feet per chicken is sufficient space. Remember, you will need to provide space to roost at night and space for the nesting boxes. If you plan on keeping them cooped up full-time then 8 – 10 square feet per chicken would do, counting the outside run. In this case, more is always better. If you are planning on buying or building a mobile chicken coop, space requirement is minimized because it offers you the ability to frequently move the coop and chickens onto fresh ground.

Don’t let a slick nest box salesman sell you more than you actually need. This six-hole nest box will easily accommodate up to 24 hens.

#7. How many nest boxes will I need for my hens?
If you asked a slick nest box salesman, he would probably tell you the answer is one box for every hen and then tell you how much he likes you and how he is willing to give you a great deal if you buy today. Fortunately, I don’t think there are many “nest box salesmen,” especially slick ones. However, there are plenty of poultry supply companies that sell nest boxes and the answer they should give you is approximately one nest box for every 5 – 6 hens. Now this can, and does, vary somewhat but the point is this, if you have 25 hens you don’t need to purchase 25 individual nest boxes. In fact, one six-hole nest box would probably be sufficient for 25 laying hens, or 6 extremely pampered laying hens.

#8. What is the best way to deal with internal and external parasites?
Because we are dealing with an animal that we may eat or eat the eggs from, I prefer to recommend the more natural alternatives for treatment opposed to chemical use. “Food grade” diatomaceous earth (DE) is the fossilized remains of microscopic shells created by one-celled plants called diatoms and is the most popular natural product for controlling internal and external parasites. Chickens can be dusted with DE to treat lice and mites, and it can be mixed with their feed to control worms. Another alternative all-natural product is Poultry Protector, used to control external parasites such as mites, lice, and fleas. Poultry Protector uses natural enzymes to control parasites and can be sprayed in all areas of the chickens’ living quarters and safely on the birds as well.

Byron’s friend Mike sprays Poultry Protector on a Buff Orpington. It’s a non-toxic, all-natural product safe for use in the coop and directly on chickens to help clean away mites, lice, and fleas.

#9. What is the best way to protect my chickens from predators?
Obviously, a well-built chicken coop is your first and best defense against predators. The coop should be designed to prevent predators from crawling through small openings or from tunneling under. Most troublesome predators come at night so it may be a good idea to place a few NiteGuards around your coop. NiteGuard Solar emits a flashing red light at night that makes predators think they’re being watched by something more terrifying than they are, forcing them to leave the area, and preventing predators from ever approaching your coop.

#10. How do I get my chickens to go in the coop at night?
Chickens instinctively move into their coop when the sun goes down. It may take a little coaxing for grown chickens to move into a newly built coop but once they realize it’s home, they generally go right in at night. Your job is to close the door behind them once they enter, and then to open it back up in the morning. If this sounds like something you don’t care to constantly deal with, you can buy an automatic chicken coop door such as the new Poultry Butler Automatic Poultry Door.

Whatever reasons made you decide to start raising chickens, personally I think you made a great decision, even if it happened to be alcohol induced. I guarantee you’re going to have some great stories to tell about your life with chickens, and I wish I could hear every one of them.

To those of you who already have chickens, don’t forget to pet the dog every once in a while. If you’re like me, you still love your dog but wish it were eggs he was laying all over the backyard. Now that would be a great story!


http://www.backyardpoultrymag.com/straw-hay-backyard-chicken-coop/

By Byron Parker, Randall Burkey Company Texas

Byron Parker will continue to share his experiences with products used in poultry keeping in future issues of Backyard Poultry. Byron is employed by Randall Burkey Company

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