Dutch Rabbits  aka Hollander Rabbits

Family: Leporidae

Dutch Rabbits are small colorful bunnies with a great disposition. 

They are an excellent pet choice for children and make a great first bunny!

The baby Dutch Rabbits pictured above are about four weeks old. They are still very small and even as adults they will stay small. 

The Dutch Rabbit is not a "dwarf" but it is a very small rabbit. Probably the most recognizable of the small breed rabbits because of its distinct markings. 

It is an excellent all around pet as well as a good choice for showing. Their easy going personality and their small size makes them easy to house.

Background:    Introduced into England from Holland in 1864, the Dutch Rabbit is one of the oldest of the domesticated rabbit breeds and are referred to as Hollander Rabbits in Holland. They are bred as pets, for showing, and as lab animals.

Description:    The adult size is about 4 1/2 pounds. Medium sized and large sized rabbits can get much larger than that! Dutch rabbits can be identified by their distinctive markings, which include the white blaze on their faces and the white band around their upper bodies.

Color differences:    Black is the most popular color of the Dutch Rabbits but other nice colors include blue, chocolate, tortoise, steel gray, and gray. 

 http://animal-world.com/encyclo/critters/rabbits/dutchrabbit.php

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Rabbitry Business Card Holder

Two Rabbits are holding your cards in this Cast Iron Business Card Holder

Nice rusty finish on this cast iron holder

Great for displaying your Rabbitry's business cards at work or at Rabbit Shows

$37.70

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Rabbit Behavior

Rabbit Behavior

 

People often think rabbits are very easy to look after and that all they need to do is pop them in a hutch in the garden and feed and clean them when needed. However, this is actually very far from the truth!
Nowadays, we have a far greater understanding of what rabbits need to keep them happy and healthy. It is also important to remember that the way a rabbit behaves will depend on their age, personality and past experiences.

Rabbits are prey animals first and foremost and their natural response to a perceived threat is to often run and hide. They have a wonderful ability to interact with humans but need time and regular, gentle handling from an early age to become comfortable around humans.

Offer your rabbits’ lots of bolt holes/hiding within their home and areas they have access to. Open spaces with no protection will cause your rabbits to feel under threat. A good idea is to place the carrier inside the homing area so increase familiarity and reduce stress during vet visits.

Think about what other animals are already in your house, and whether they are a natural predator to rabbits. For example rabbits will feel scared being housed next to dog kennels or ferret enclosures! Make sure your rabbits can always escape and hide if they feel afraid.

If a rabbit’s behavior changes or they show regular signs of stress or fear (such as frequent hiding or being aggressive to you/or other pets), they may be in pain, distressed and /or suffering emotionally. You should get your pet checked by a vet to rule out any form of illness or injury that could be causing the behavior problem. Your vet can then refer you to a behaviour expert if necessary.

Create a ‘wild’ environment for your rabbits
In the wild, rabbits have plenty to keep them occupied, from foraging to reproduction to territorial defence. Pet rabbits, on the other hand, often lack stimulation, which can lead to behavioural problems and poor health. Much like humans, they need to be kept physically and mentally active. You can replicate a rabbit’s natural environment by providing some of the items below:

• Tunnels (that are wide enough for the rabbits to pass through easily)
• Tree stumps (from trees that are safe for rabbits to chew, e.g. apple, that have not been sprayed with chemicals) to act as look out points (platforms)
• Safe, unsprayed twigs (which can be hung up so that they can pull them)
• Suitable toys (there are many rabbit toys available commercially; ensure any you buy are safe and that your rabbits use them)
• Digging Box i.e. A planter filled with earth for digging
• Platforms for hiding under and climbing on
• Constant access to safe hiding places (such as cardboard boxes)
• Games, such as food items in brown paper which they have to unwrap
• Put food in multiple places so they have to move around to find it
• Use food balls (the treat balls made for cats work well) to feed their nuggets as they will spend longer eating and have fun chasing them around

Rabbits become bored of toys quickly, so rotate items regularly to keep them interested. Ensure there are enough resources for all your rabbits to use at the same time. Regularly inspect items for damage and potential hazards and repair, discard or replace any items that become dangerous.

Digging
Digging is a favourite pastime of rabbits, both domestic and wild. By providing digging substrates, such as a child’s sand pit or wide plant pot filled with earth or child-safe play sand, your pet rabbits will be able to dig away without damaging your garden or escaping.

Marking
Rabbits’ homes are their castles and in the wild they are very protective of their territory, marking out anything they see as theirs using chin secretions, urine and droppings. These markings also help them to feel reassured as their environment smells familiar. Pet rabbits will also display these behaviours and you should allow them to do so.

Variety
Just like humans, rabbits become bored if their environment remains the same, so consider an occasional change of scenery. However, be careful as too much change can be stressful. Wild rabbits’ survival depends on an intimate knowledge of their surroundings in order to escape from predators, so structural changes to your pet rabbits’ ‘warren’ should be kept subtle, such as changing their toys and regularly providing new ones

http://www.burgesspetcare.com/your-pet/rabbits/caring-for-your-rabbit/

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Your Rabbit's Health

• There are many different health problems that rabbits face, but most can be avoided – either by regular vaccination or by good diet and a healthy lifestyle.
   
  
  
  
  Health Checks
  You can help to maintain your pets’ good health by learning to do some simple health checks every week. These will help you to spot any problems early so you can get treatment in good time – and this regular handling will strengthen the bond between you.
  
  A vital part of the health check is getting to know your rabbits. Like people, they’re all different, so if you become familiar with the way yours move, react and feed, you will find it easier to spot when something is wrong.
  
  Make sure your pets are relaxed, comfortable and willing to be handled when you carry out these checks – an Excel Nature Snack may help and if your rabbits are unwell, always contact your vet.
  
  Ears – Gently look inside to see if they’re free from mites and fleas, which can carry diseases.
  
  Eyes – They should be clear, shiny, not swollen and free from discharge. Dampness or dull or swollen eyes can be symptoms of illness which may lead to blindness.
  
  Teeth – Check to see there is no excessive drooling. Be careful, rabbits may bite if they’re not comfortable with their mouths being examined.
  
  Bottom – Make sure it’s clean and not sticky or wet, which can be a sign of poor diet or malnutrition. Any droppings attached to the fur should be washed off.
  
  Feet – Make sure the feet haven’t been injured and check that their claws haven’t overgrown.
  
  Fur – see that there are no bald patches, no signs of mites or fleas and no signs of injury.
  
  Infectious diseases
  There are two main vaccinations and some simple preventative measures to keep your pets free from infectious diseases. You should ask your vet for more details and always keep up to date with vaccinations. Here’s a brief guide to the four main infectious diseases. But if you are in any doubt whatsoever, it is vital that you consult your vet as soon as possible.
  
  Myxomatosis – this disease spreads via blood-sucking insects, like fleas. Even house rabbits are not immune, because the disease can be spread by mosquitoes.
  

  • Symptoms – Swellings around the head, face, ears, lips and anus.
  • Effects – Blindness, swelling around the face, disorientation, death.
  • Action – Rabbits must be vaccinated. See your vet for more details.

  
  Viral Haemorrhagic Disease (VHD) – a very serious condition which causes internal bleeding and shut down of internal organs. This disease kills – and there is no cure.
  

  • Symptoms – depression, collapse, difficulty in breathing, convulsions, high body temperature, lethargy, bleeding from the nose.
  • Effects – death.
  • Action – rabbits must be vaccinated. See your vet for more details.

  
  Encephalitozoon cuniculi (E. cuniculi) – a microscopic parasite which affects many internal organs like the kidneys and brain.
  

  • Symptoms – As the parasite acts internally, symptoms are manifestations of the internal organs being attacked. Increasing thirst and weight loss, convulsions, tremors, hind limb weakness, coma, loss of balance, urinary incontinence.
  • Effects – Seizures, kidney disease, hind limb weakness, loss of vision and balance.
  • Action – There are preventative treatments available. See your vet for more details.

  
  Flystrike – a disease which occurs when flies lay their eggs around the rabbit’s anus.
  

  • Symptoms – droppings stuck around the bottom (that attract flies), diarrhoea can also be a precursor, wounds around the bottom.
  • Effects – The eggs hatch into maggots which mature and burrow under the skin making the rabbit extremely ill. Can be fatal. Pets most at risk at are those suffering from obesity, dental disease, diarrhoea, arthritis and skin wounds and those living in dirty hutches. The majority of cases are due to flies being attracted to droppings or diarrhoea stuck to the rabbits bottom caused by poor diet.
  • Action – There are preventative treatments available. See your vet for more details. However, a good diet of Excel Herbage and Tasty Nuggets taken according to The Excel Feeding Plan, can help to prevent obesity, dental disease and diarrhoea and guard against fly strike. Good hygiene is also vital.

  
  Problems caused by poor diet
  There are two major problem areas which can be avoided with a good diet, plenty of exercise and regular health checks.
  
  Dental problems –Problems like these generally develop because rabbits aren’t eating enough hay, which is a fibre-rich food that helps to wear down the teeth.
  

  • Symptoms – Excessive drooling and loss of appetite.
  • Effects A rabbit’s teeth will continue to grow around 10-12cm a year all its life. Vets say that three-quarters of the rabbits they see have problems with their teeth – the most common problem being overgrown molars and spurs which can cause extreme pain.
  • Action – Check your pets’ teeth on a weekly basis but you must visit the vet for a dental check every six month as you will be unable to check their back teeth.

  
  Obesity – Rabbits kept as pets are much less active than those which live in the wild, so being overweight is always a risk.
  

  • Symptoms – Sticky droppings (caecotrophs) that haven’t been eaten, dirty bottoms, ‘bed sores’ on hind legs
  • Effects – Obesity puts pressure on the heart and joints, can create ‘bed sores’ on the hind legs and may shorten your rabbit’s life. Some obese animals find it hard to clean themselves, which can lead to flystrike. If they can’t reach their bottoms they can’t re-ingest caecotrophs – the sticky droppings they need to eat as an essential aid to survival.
  • Action – Prevention is better than cure, so ask your vet about your rabbits’ ideal weight. Weigh them regularly to make sure they fall into their target weight. All rabbits, but especially those which spend most of their time in hutches, should have as much exercise as possible.

  If your rabbits do become overweight, see your vet for advice. A calorie-controlled food, such as Excel Light Tasty Nuggets, may be suggested. Never withhold food from your rabbits – they must have some fibre in their digestive systems at all times or else they are at risk of chronic constipation which can be fatal.
  
  http://www.burgesspetcare.com/your-pet/rabbits/caring-for-your-rabbit/

Rabbit Terminology

Here is a quick list of rabbit terminology you should know when raising rabbits.

Abscess- collection of pus caused by infection
Agouti- A color pattern where each individual hair alternates dark and light bands.
Albino- a white haired rabbit with pink eyes.

Belled ears- Ears that lop over or droop, this is sometimes caused in growing rabbits in hot weather.
BEW- blue eyed white rabbit.
Birthing- see kindling
Breed- Group of rabbits that share the same characteristic’s such as color, size, and fur type
Breeding- When you mate rabbits.
Buck- A male rabbit.

Coccidiosis- Coccidiosis is considered to be the most common disease in rabbits and is very hard to cure.   Coccidiosis is caused by a protozoan. There are nine species of this protozoa that can affect rabbits, only one affects the liver, while the other 8 affect the intestines. It seems that younger rabbits have a higher risk for this disease. The disease is spread as the eggs from the protozoa are shed in the rabbit feces, which is then transmitted to other rabbits.
Condition- the general health and appearance of a rabbit.
Colony raising- This system of management is the raising of multiple rabbits together in one area inside or outside.
Crossbreed- breeding rabbits of different breeds.
Culling- Culling is not just the killing of rabbits, but  with that being said you do not want to breed or sell to potential breeders, bad rabbits these are to sold as pets only. Save The Best Eat The Rest!

Dam-The mother of a particular rabbit.
Dewlap- Fold of loose skin under the chin of female rabbits.
Doe- A female rabbit.
Dressed- Skinned and prepared for cooking.

Ear canker- Scabby conditions in rabbits ears caused by ear mite.
Enteritis- Is a Intestinal disturbance in domestic rabbits this is caused by stress and or other underlying diseases.

Foster- Fostering rabbit kits is the act of placing newborn baby rabbits with a different mother doe.

Gestation period- The period of time between breeding and kindling. Usually 28 to 31 days.

Heat stroke- Illness caused by exposer to high temperatures
Hock-First joint of the hind leg of the rabbit.
Hutch- Rabbit housing
Hutch card- Information card on cage that identifies the rabbit and contains breeding information

Jacket off – this means the rabbit will be skinned

Kits- A bunch of bunnies.
Kindling- when the doe is giving birth to young.

Lagomorph- There are about eighty species of lagomorph which include thirty species of pika, twenty species of rabbits and cottontails, and thirty species of hares.
Litter- group of baby rabbits born in one birth
Line breeding- this breeding system is usually the most satisfactory. Line breeding itself is a form of inbreeding, but is less intense. In line breeding, rabbits are mated together which are both descendants from a particular rabbit, but which are as distantly related as possible.
Loin-

Malocclusion- The misalignment of teeth, this is genetic and rabbits that have this should not be bred.
Molt- Shedding fur
Mucoid enteritis- Disease that usually affect’s young rabbits, symptom’s are loss of appetite, increased thirst, and jelly like diarrhea.

Nest box-  A box to provided for the doe so that she can make a nest and have kits in.
Nesting- when the doe starts to put nesting material in her box.

Outcrossing- is the breeding of two rabbits from unrelated lines.

Palpate- Feeling for the developing embryos within the abdominal cavity of the pregnant doe. This is said to be the most reliable way to determine pregnancy in the domestic rabbits. 
Pedigree- Written record of an animals ancestors, going back at least three generations.
Pelt- skin and fur of a rabbit to be tanned.
Purebred- parents are of the same breed

Rabbitry- place were rabbits are kept
REW- Red or ruby eyed white

Saddle- the meaty hind body and legs
Sire- The father of a particular rabbit.
Sired- fathered
Sore hock- a ulcerated condition of the undersurface of the hind feet of a domestic rabbit. Cause by sparse hair on the hocks, this could be genetics or some breeds like rexes have this naturally. Dirty wet conditions.

Tattoo- permanent mark in ear to identify rabbits.
Test breeding- At about two weeks following breeding, the doe is returned to the buck’s cage. If she is bred, she will whine, growl, and flatten herself against the cage floor. She will not be happy to the buck’s advances. This is often the case, but there are does who will breed if pregnant and those who will refuse the buck when they are not.
Trio- 2 does and 1 buck. They are usually matched for breeding to begin or expand a rabbitry.
Type- General physical make up of a rabbit.

Warren- Warrens are a large fenced enclosed area were rabbits can burrow and live as naturally as possible. This is equal to free ranging chickens.
Weaning- When you take young rabbits away from the mother and their transition to solid food.
Wool block- blockage in the digestive tract cause by fur

http://riseandshinerabbitry.com/

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Bonding a Pair of Rabbits

Bonding a Pair of Rabbits

What You Need to Know about Bonding a Pair of Rabbits

Rabbits can find a best friend in another rabbit even if there is a huge difference in age or breed. Bonded pairs don’t need to bemale-female, although that’s often the best and easiest pairingas long as they are both neutered. Your rabbit’s best mate can be the same gender.

It also goes almost without saying that if you put two rabbits of the different sex together, they will mate and have babies unless you arrange for them to be neutered. This requires a visit to the vets. Apart from preventing unwanted pregnancies, it’s also true that unneutered rabbits are prone to aggression between each other and that can certainly come out during the bonding process.

No matter which two rabbits you hope to put together, they both need to be vaccinated. Rabbits of all ages are susceptible to infections, so check with your vet and get them protected with the latest vaccines available.
It’s important to remember that the bonding process isn’t always easy. If you experience difficulties, don’t hesitate to consult a professional. Chat to your vet or a local rabbit shelter as they’ll be able to offer tips specific to your rabbit.

How to Bond a Pair of Rabbits
You can bond almost any two rabbits with each other given enough time. Even though it’s successful in most cases, some rabbits just aren’t meant to be together. The easiest way to bond a pair of rabbits is to adopt them together. However, the best case isn’t always feasible.

There are two ways to bond a pair of rabbits. If you can move both to neutral territory, you might be able to fast track the standard bonding process. All good rabbit rescue centres will be able to give you good practical advice on how best to do this. Once you’ve moved both rabbits to this space, you will need to supervise until you can see that your rabbits are lovey-dovey and nuzzling each other. If you spot any signs of aggression, you may need to break up the party.

 

Most bonding takes place over a longer time. Usually, this entails placing rabbits in neighbouring areas with a boundary between them. This allows rabbits to learn each others’ smells and movements before they actually meet face to face. This process can take months, but it can be worth it if you’ve got a particularly difficult rabbit to bond.
 

Top Tips to Take Away:

• Rabbits hate being alone and really want a friend to spend their time with. When a pair of rabbits is in love, it’s known as being bonded.
• Bonding rabbits isn’t always easy, but nearly every rabbit can be bonded for life. Pairs can be male-female or of the same gender.
• Even if you’re bonding rabbits of the same gender, you need to ensure that they’re both neutered and up to date on their vaccinations.
• Bonding rabbits can happen quickly, especially if you have neutral territory and a few hours to supervise. Or, it can take a few months; it really all depends on your pets.
• If you run into any problems, divide your rabbits and seek advice from a vet or rabbit shelter volunteer.

http://www.burgesspetcare.com/2015/03/bonding-a-pair-of-rabbits/

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Tips For Choosing Your Rabbit’s Habitat

Rabbit owners can choose from a variety of options to provide the best habitat for their pet rabbit.

Most pet rabbits need to be in some type of enclosure, the larger the better, for safety. 

Rabbit housing runs a gamut of styles. There are X-pens (exercise pens), rabbit condos, cages, hutches and a rabbit-proofed room. There are also variations of each, such as condos within X-pens. Here are considerations to help you zero-in on the best habitat for your bunny.

See our previous post on Cages - Single, Double Cages and X Pens at:  https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=9098304746880918776#editor/target=post;postID=7471656013900001612;onPublishedMenu=allposts;onClosedMenu=allposts;postNum=7;src=postname

Living Large In The Great Indoors Rabbits can make great indoor pets. They can be litter trained, conditioned to come when called, and some will hop up on your lap to be petted. Another big plus is that rabbits are considerably quieter pets, so you won’t have to deal with barking every time the doorbell rings or be awakened by persistent meowing.

What’s more, companion rabbits that reside inside the home seem to especially thrive and are protected from weather extremes and predators. An indoor rabbit is also more likely to receive consistent social interaction from his owners.

The ideal indoor housing setup for a companion rabbit is simple in concept: the bigger the area, the better. Some rabbit owners have been able to do away with a cage or X-pen altogether, and instead allow their rabbits the run of a designated room or, in some cases, the entire house. However, don’t even think about plopping your new rabbit down in a room of your home and leaving for the day. Many steps must be taken before allowing a rabbit free-range in the home. And the reality is that the majority of companion rabbits need an enclosure of some sort for safety’s sake.

The first order of business is to rabbit-proof any area your bunny will have access to, no matter if it is for five minutes at a time or a full day. It doesn’t take long for a rabbit to chew through an electrical cord or speaker wires, scratch a hole in carpet, dig through flowerpots or nibble on houseplants. Some rabbits have a penchant for crawling in tight spaces, such as behind the fridge or couch, which can make it difficult to entice them to come out. There is also the concern of a door being left open and your rabbit hopping outside.

Bundle all electrical cords with protective tubing (sold at most home-improvement stores), keep houseplants and rugs out of rabbit’s reach, block off areas a rabbit can crawl into and hide (unless you have the time and patience to wait for your rabbit to come back out), and keep a close eye on your rabbit to make sure he doesn’t take a liking to digging into your carpet or chewing up wood furniture or your wall molding. Plenty of chew-appropriate toys will go a long way in helping deter your rabbit from helping himself to your home furnishings! Basic rabbit-proofing also includes taking measures to ensure that your rabbit is not left alone with the household cat or dog, as this can create a prey-versus-predator scenario.

You’ll also want your rabbit to be fully litter-trained. The golden rule to litter training is to start small and go bigger. Limit your rabbit’s range at first so that he is more easily directed to use the litter box. House your rabbit in a cage or enclosure until he consistently uses the litter box, and then you can increase your rabbit’s range by placing the litter box in a designated area of a room.

X Marks The Spot Many rabbit owners find an X-pen setup ideal for keeping their rabbit safely in a designated area while they are away — an important consideration because a pet rabbit’s curiosity can get him into a hazardous situation when left to roam in a home. An X-pen offers a good amount of space for a rabbit to hop about, and a rabbit is likely to be content to be in this large setup while his owners are busy around the home or when other pets are out and about.

A large X-pen can be outfitted with a box, tunnel, small travel carrier with the door removed or a bunny condo to accommodate a rabbit’s preference to sleep/lounge in an enclosed space (his den). Most X-pens can be configured to be rectangular, square or circular in shape, which allows you to make the most of available space. While your rabbit should still be offered daily opportunities for supervised exploration outside the pen, an X-pen is a good housing option for those who are away from home for most of the day. 

Small Houses Lifestyle 
At the bare minimum, your rabbit’s habitat should allow him room to fully stretch out, stand up and move around without bumping into the sides or top. It should also have enough space to accommodate a litter box and allow the rabbit to hop in and out of the litter box. The House Rabbit Society, an international nonprofit organization that educates the public on rabbit care, recommends that a cage be at least four times the size of the rabbit.

While you might not be able to offer your rabbit a wing of his own in your home, you can schedule in daily out-of-cage time and/or allow your rabbit the run of a room whenever you are home. If your rabbit’s habitat is at the small end of the size spectrum, think of it more as your bunny’s sleeping space and temporary housing while you are away. Your rabbit should not be housed in a small cage the entire day, day in and day out, just like a dog should not be expected to stay in a kennel for the majority of his day. 

Create a routine similar to dog owners who keep their pooches indoors full-time, such as those who live in apartments, where walk time needs to be incorporated into the daily schedule. Allow your rabbit out-of-cage time while you get ready for work or school and again when you arrive home. If you work long hours or are otherwise away from home until late evening, a small cage might not be a good housing option for your rabbit.
 
Add To Your Rabbit’s Real Estate   
If space is a concern, a two-level cage can add extra room for your rabbit. This type of enclosure has a ramp for your rabbit to hop up to a second-floor loft. There are other ways to add to a rabbit’s real estate, such as placing a cardboard bunny condo within an X-pen or securing shelving grids together to add a "yard” around your rabbit’s cage. If you do find a creative way to increase your rabbit’s territory, make sure that it is safe. This means that it has no gaps where your rabbit can get his paws pinched or his head stuck, and that the materials are nontoxic, because it is a rabbit’s instinct to chew. 

One setup to avoid is an enclosure that doesn’t allow air to circulate, such as a glass aquarium. Rabbit urine has a high concentration of ammonia. Containers that block off airflow on all four sides can cause a buildup of ammonia, which can severely affect your rabbit’s respiratory system.
 
Make The Outdoors Great   
Just as you must take precautions to rabbit-proof and keep your rabbit safe in an indoor housing setup, it is vital that you set up your rabbit for success if you choose an outdoor habitat. This includes protecting your rabbit from the weather extremes and predators, which can include neighborhood cats and dogs, birds of prey, raccoons and possums, and ensuring that your rabbit receives daily social interaction.

Most pet rabbits that are housed outdoors are housed in a hutch. A rabbit hutch is typically a raised, fully enclosed structure constructed for outdoor use. When outfitted correctly, a hutch can offer protection from predators, as well as shelter from the sun and rain. Many hutches have a wire-grate floor to allow feces and urine to fall through to a metal catch-pan below. While this design makes cleaning up easier and keeps your rabbit from having direct contact with his bodily waste, the wire can irritate a rabbit’s feet to the point of open sores if the rabbit has nothing solid to stand on or rest against. A mat, rug, wide flat piece of wood or other surface that allows your rabbit to step off of wire flooring is a necessity. What’s more, many rabbits like to snuggle up against something soft like a blanket or rug, which should be laundered regularly, especially if it is exposed to the elements.

If your rabbit is housed in a hutch outdoors, he should have an enclosed space within the hutch to retreat to. This allows the rabbit additional shelter from the weather, as well as a place to hide if he feels threatened by a predator or other stressful situation. Some hutches have a box-type enclosure worked into the design; if not, you can add one by placing a plastic igloo, a small travel carrier with the door removed, or a sturdy box in a corner of the hutch. 

Setups typically used for indoor housing might not be the best option for a rabbit housed outdoors. A cage placed on the ground might make your rabbit more prone to predation, because it gives cats, raccoons and possums easier access to all four sides, and this placement also allows dogs to run up to it, which can cause undue stress. An open top enclosure, such as an X-pen, generally does not make a good choice for outdoor housing, because it can leave your rabbit vulnerable to aerial assaults by birds of prey or predators like cats and raccoons that can jump or climb into the pen.

An X-pen, however, can make a good outdoor playground for your rabbit whenever you can sit there to offer adequate supervision. If you place the X-pen on grass, make sure the grass hasn’t been treated with weed killers or insecticides, as your rabbit could become ill if he nibbles on the grass. Place the X-pen on a flat area; if it slopes on one side or has an area of depression near one of the sides, your rabbit might be able to squeeze beneath and out of the pen. Also keep an eye out to make sure your rabbit isn’t digging under the X-pen; depending on how soft the ground is, your rabbit could dig under it and be out of the pen in a matter of minutes.

http://www.smallanimalchannel.com/rabbits/rabbit-housing/tips-for-choosing-your-rabbits-habitat.aspx

See our previous post on Cages - Single, Double Cages and X Pens at:  https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=9098304746880918776#editor/target=post;postID=7471656013900001612;onPublishedMenu=allposts;onClosedMenu=allposts;postNum=7;src=postname

 

Consider these things when deciding to house your rabbit indoors or outdoors.

Rabbits Pepper and Patches/© Courtesy Scott and Stephanie PotterWhere you place your rabbit's cage can affect its health.

A big part of owning a pet rabbit is deciding on where to house it.
Many rabbit enthusiasts recommend housing rabbits indoors. Outdoor rabbits can be preyed upon or frightened by neighborhood cats, birds of prey and other wildlife, and are more susceptible to parasites like ear mites.

Another outdoor hazard is heat. Rabbits do not tolerate hot weather well and can suffer heatstroke very quickly. A rabbit housed inside the home is more likely to receive frequent attention and interaction with household members — which makes the rabbit a more social pet.
As for the exact indoor location, situate your rabbit’s enclosure in an area of your home that receives some foot traffic, but not in a “busy intersection.” Your rabbit should be protected from a pet cat or dog, as well as from direct blasts by air conditioning or heating units.


You can choose one of several options for your rabbit’s indoor habitat.

© Gina Cioli/BowTie StudioIf rabbits live in a cage, give them daily out-of-cage time in a safe area.

1. If you have a room available to devote to your rabbit, rabbit-proof the room and provide it with all the accessories it needs, including a hideaway or a cage that has its door open. Use a pet gate, baby gate or some other method to keep the rabbit in the room. This setup allows your rabbit free-roam but gives it the option to retreat to its cage whenever it wishes.

2. If you can’t devote an entire room to your rabbit, set up a pet exercise pen enclosing as large an area as you have available. Again, include all the accessories it needs (litter box, food and water containers, toys, mats, etc.) and also a cage with its door open all the time or a hideaway.

3. If space is more limited, you can house your rabbit in a cage that’s big enough to contain all your rabbit’s accessories and still allow your rabbit to lie down, stand up and move freely. A larger cage is needed for multiple rabbits. The food station should be as far as possible from the litter area. Rabbits that live in a cage need to have a few hours of daily out-of-cage time. You can set up an exercise pen for this or supervise your pet in a rabbit-proofed room.

If you choose to house your rabbit outdoors, its pen must be fully enclosed and should have a solid top to prevent direct sun exposure and to keep rain out.

Also, offer your rabbit a hiding place, such as a box or tube, where it can feel safe if frightened. (A tall litter box with a large opening, turned upside down works well.)

Your rabbit’s enclosure should be easily accessible and visible, not hidden away in a corner of the yard. A pet rabbit requires daily interaction with you, so make time for indoor play, or create an outdoor rabbit run.

http://www.smallanimalchannel.com/rabbits/rabbit-housing/rabbit-housing-location.aspx

See our previous post on Cages - Single, Double Cages and X Pens at:  https://www.blogger.com/blogger.g?blogID=9098304746880918776#editor/target=post;postID=7471656013900001612;onPublishedMenu=allposts;onClosedMenu=allposts;postNum=7;src=postname.. 


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