Information and unique products for Dogs, Cats, Rabbits and Backyard Chickens

Sunday, March 8, 2015

North Georgia Rabbit Rescue & Foster Care


From Bunniestotherescue.blogspot.com and Best4bunny.com

Blue Ridge Rabbit Rescue & Foster Care - serving Atlanta and North Georgia.

We know you do not want to abandon your pet, however, circumstances do change and you may find it best to find a humane and loving environment to take the on the responsibility

Please contact us if your time or ability to properly look after your rabbit has changed. We want to help.  All rabbits are welcome.

Please e-mail us with information regarding your location and your rabbit's age and breed.  We will respond within 48 hours.



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Sunday, March 1, 2015

Thinking About Getting a Pet Rabbit?


Thinking About Getting a Pet Rabbit?

Rabbits make wonderful indoor pets. They are adorable and brimming with personality. But before you swoop into the shelter and pick out a cutie, there are a few things you should know to ensure a rabbit is right for you and your family.
    Rabbit inside
  • Finances: Owning a pet rabbit comes with added financial responsibility. Be prepared to spend money up front on the adoption fee ($60+), as well as housing/food/bunny proofing supplies. In addition, be sure you’ll be able to afford ongoing costs for a bunny on food, litter, and vet bills (including spay/neuter fees if the bunny didn’t get the surgery while at the shelter/rescue). To give you an idea of costs, check out our article How Much Does a Pet Rabbit Cost?.
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  • Bunny Housing: Rabbits are social animals. The location of a rabbit’s housing area within your home (which can take the form of a puppy pen, bunny condo, large cage, or just an area with the food, litter boxes, and cardboard castles if the bunny is free reign) is an extremely important consideration. You’ll have to make sure the rabbit has a place to relax by himself but is not completely secluded from the family. Rabbits need social interaction, plenty of exercise, and a lot of enrichment activities. Take a look at our Housing article to learn more.
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  • Bunny Proofing: If the bunny will have free reign in the house/apartment/room, you will absolutely need to bunny proof the area. Even if you keep the bunny in a cage, condo, or puppy pen, you still will need to safeguard your home when you let the rabbit out for supervised exercise. Rabbits are very curious and persistent creatures. They will find a way to get into your computer cables, wires, molding, couch piping, slightly frayed rug, etc. They will eat your most important documents. Check out our Bunny Proofing article for tips on protecting your bunny and your things.
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  • Enrichment: Rabbits will get into trouble if they’re bored. They’ll make their own fun chewing your possessions if you don’t provide alternate forms of entertainment. A great diversion for rabbits is a cardboard castle filled with empty toilet paper rolls, old phone books, and other paper products you find around the house.
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  • Litter Box Training: Most rabbit rescues will start the process of litter training the bunnies they take in. So a rescue bunny should have the basics down, but sometimes rabbits forget their good habits once they move into their new home. This is natural because the drastic change in environment can be very stressful. Litter training can be frustrating at times, but the key is persistence and consistent reinforcement of good habits. Read our article about litter training to learn more.
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  • Nutrition: It’s important to have a good understanding of a rabbit’s nutritional needs throughout his/her life. Proper nutrition (and in the correct amounts) is vital for a rabbit’s well-being. The staple of a rabbit’s diet is fiber. Rabbits must have access to unlimited grass hays at all times. It is very important to ensure that hay allergies will not pose a problem for anyone in the household. For a more detailed explanation of rabbit nutrition, see our article, What to Feed Your Pet Rabbit and Hay for Rabbits: Essential for Good Health. Another great link is the House Rabbit Society’s article about diet, which discusses the appropriate amounts as well as types of food to give your rabbit from youth to old age.
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  • Bonding with a Bunny: Rabbits can be quite affectionate animals, but personalities definitely vary from individual to individual. Most rabbits don’t particularly like being held/picked up, and some bunnies are more aloof than others. See our article, Building a Relationship with Your Pet Rabbit, for more information about taking steps to bond with a bunny.Talk with a volunteer at a local rabbit rescue to learn more about which rabbit (or pair of rabbits) has a personality that would be a good fit for you and your family.
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  • Traveling: Rabbits get very stressed out when traveling or when placed in unfamiliar environments, so it’s best to have a good pet sitter on hand to watch the bunny if you go on vacation. If you’re a big jet-setter, with the need or desire to move to various places around the world, rabbit ownership probably isn’t right for you. Very few airlines allow rabbits to fly in-cabin within the United States and abroad. Oftentimes rabbits are subjected to multi-month-long quarantine periods upon arrival into other countries, and in many places, pet rabbits are not permitted in at all.
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  • Children and Rabbits: Rabbits live 10+ years. Adopting a rabbit is a long-term commitment. Rabbits are NOT low-maintenance pets. So adopting a bunny should be a family decision. When kids turn 18 and go to college or look for work, it’s important that the rabbit still has a safe, loving home. Read our article, Children and Pet Rabbits, for more information.
Bottom line: Do your research before adding a bunny to your family! While it’s easy to get swept up in the excitement of getting a pet rabbit, it’s important to first assess whether or not you can truly provide a good forever home to a bunny.

If you’ve done your research and feel confident you can properly care for a bunny, please adopt a rabbit from a rescue or shelter instead of purchasing one from a breeder or pet store. Shelters are overflowing with homeless bunnies of all shapes and sizes. See our article, Benefits of Adopting a Rabbit, for more information.

You can get ready for your new pet by reading, Preparing for Your First House Rabbit, which includes a list of initial bunny supplies.

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About the Author: Abi Cushman is the proud owner of two mischievous agouti rabbits named Coco and Cosette. She also co-edits the fun wildlife website called Animal Fact Guide.


http://myhouserabbit.com/new-to-rabbits/thinking-about-getting-a-pet-rabbit/
House rabbits peeking out Blue Ridge Pet Center searches the internet to find the most informative articles and most unique products for the four pet categories that we cover.  For Rabbits we love the blog My House Rabbit.Com and urge that you visit that site and explore their articles.

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Tuesday, February 24, 2015

Bunny Gardening for Beginners

One of the great things about owning a pet rabbit is that you can grow a lot of their food yourself in a backyard garden. In fact, you don’t have to be a master gardener or own a huge plot of land to grow a few of your bunny’s favorites.

Bunny Garden

Container Gardening

If you’re new to the gardening world or have limited space, a great way to grow vegetables is in containers. You can build a 4×4-foot raised bed fairly economically using planks of untreated pine. You could even use scrap wood. But you have to make sure that the wood you choose is free of chemicals that can leach into the soil. In addition to raised beds, you can grow a lot of plants in pots. The key to container gardening is making sure you use a good potting mix that provides essential nutrients, aeration, and moisture control.

Lettuce

Romaine lettuceLettuce is fairly easy to grow. You can direct seed lettuce into a raised bed, and you can grow several plants in a small space.
For head lettuce like romaine, you can grow four heads per square foot. For leaf lettuce, you can grow as many as 16 per square foot. With leaf lettuce, you have the added benefit of being able to clip leaves from the outside and leaving the plant to replenish itself. With head lettuce, once it’s grown, you chop the entire plant and reseed.
Lettuce is a cooler weather crop, thriving in temperatures around 50-60°F (10-15°C). They do best planted in the spring and fall. However, you can find more heat-resistant varieties from seed banks like SeedSavers.org that you can grow all summer long. In very hot climates, you may want to place your raised bed in a shadier location or construct a shade to keep them cooler.

Bok Choy

Bok choy (aka Chinese cabbage or pak choi) germinates and grows quickly. Direct seed bok choy into a raised bed in the spring or fall as it is a cool weather crop. The soil should be loose and rich. Take care to weed your raised bed so the weeds do not take vital nutrients away from the bok choy plants. After about 45-50 days, bok choy reaches maturity. Be sure to harvest the plants before the weather gets hot because they will bolt (go to seed) quickly.

Rabbit eating carrotCarrots

Carrots can also be directly seeded into a raised bed, although it’s best to use smaller varieties for container gardening. Carrots prefer loose soil, free of rocks, to grow. Aside from thinning the plants to 16 per square foot and keeping the space weed-free, carrots are fairly easy to maintain.
The Paris Market carrots seen here provide just enough of a treat for rabbits. (Carrots should be given sparingly to rabbits.)  They enjoy the leafy tops as well.

Herbs

Herbs are great for containers. You can grow an assortment of herbs like basil, oregano, mint, parsley, and cilantro that your rabbit will love. Some herbs, like mint, are best placed in pots because they are hardy and spread easily. Mint can easily take over a space if not contained.

Dandelions

What can be easier than growing weeds? Growing dandelions is a snap. Most likely, you’ll even be able to collect the plants and seeds from your own yard (as long as your yard isn’t chemically treated.) If you’re going to plant dandelion seeds, it is best to place them in pots so they don’t spread to the rest of your garden, strangling out other plants. All you do is take a handful of seeds, spread them over the top of your soil, cover them ever so lightly with dirt, and then water. (Dandelion seeds need light to germinate.) Before you know it, you’ll have a pot of delicious greens for your rabbit to enjoy. And these hardy plants keep coming back even after you cut the leaves down.

Some Tips

  • Make sure you thin the seedlings, leaving only the strongest plant in the allotted space. This allows healthy plants the room and nutrients they need to thrive.
  • Make sure the container you use has good drainage. Soil should be moist but not muddy.
  • Alternating the placement of plants by square foot (so that you don’t have all the same kind of plant in one raised bed) can help prevent the occurrence of disease and pests.
  • Plant crops successively for continual harvest.

About the Author

Abi Cushman is the proud owner of two mischievous agouti rabbits named Coco and Cosette. She also co-edits the fun wildlife website called Animal Fact Guide.

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Flowers Toxic To Rabbits



Safe Plants For Rabbits


Disclaimer: This list is provided for informational purposes only. To the best of my knowledge, all the plants listed here are safe for rabbits when fed in moderation as directed; however, neither I nor Frühlingskabine Micro-Farm will be responsible in any way for any ill effects that may occur from using these plants. Please use botanical names for identification purposes; common names vary from place to place and are not a reliable tool for identifying plants. 
See: http://fmicrofarm.com/printables/

12 Things You Didn't Know About Rabbits

Easter Infographic: 12 Things You Didn't Know About Rabbits
Infographic: 12 Things You Didn't Know About Rabbits
by Vetstreet

Sunday, February 22, 2015

Rabbit Hutch/Cage Size Guide




Rabbit Hutch/Cage Size Guide

Rabbits need somewhere to eat, sleep, hide, and go to the toilet, plus room to hop, run, play, jump, and dig. To provide enough space for all this, the minimum recommended size for the living space, e.g. hutch or cage, is 12 square feet (1.1 square meters), for example 6'x2' (1.8mx0.6m), with the addition of a larger area (32 sq. ft.) for exercise. This is just the minimum though; try to give your rabbit as much space as you can.

Living Space - Minimum 12 sq. ft

Your rabbit's living space should include an enclosed sleeping area, space for a litter tray and feed/water bowls and room to move about and have a few toys. It is essential that your rabbit has the room to stretch in all directions. A living space that's too small can affect your rabbit's health - causing spine problems, muscle wastage and obesity.

Rabbit Hutch Width

A relaxed rabbit will fully stretch out when resting, so your rabbit hutch/cage should be wide enough to allow you rabbit to lie with its legs stretched. This also allows for plenty of room to turn around.
A minimum width of 2' (60cm) is recommended for small to medium sized rabbits and 3' (90cm) for large to giant breeds.

Rabbit Hutch Length

The hutch should be long enough for your rabbit to take at least 3-4 hops without bumping its nose on the end. A medium sized rabbit covers about 18" (45cm) with each hop - see me measuring/photographing my rabbit Scamp hoping here.
Keep in mind the total floor area too, if your hutch is 2' wide, the length would need to need to be 6' to make 12 sq. ft. total.

Rabbit Hutch Height

Rabbits stand up on their back legs to check their environment is safe, and your rabbit's hutch/cage should be tall enough to allow this without your rabbit being hunched over or folding its ears against the roof.
A height of 2' (60cm) is usually adequate for small rabbits but large breeds may need closer to 3' (90cm). It's okay if some areas, for example tunnels or sleeping boxes are lower as long as the majority of the space is full height.

Run/Exercise Space - Minimum 32 sq. ft.

The minimum recommended exercise space is 32 square feet (e.g. 8'x4'). As with the living space, your rabbit will need to be able to stand up fully. Although not compulsory, it also helps to add a little extra height to allow for jumping and for objects to stand jump/stand on. You might like to consider your own height too - being able to comfortably walk inside your rabbits exercise area can make interacting with your rabbit easier.

Linking Living & Exercise Space

Ideally you'd provide the living and exercise space as one large area, or two areas your rabbit can move between freely, for example a cage attached to a pen or a hutch linked with a tunnel or ramp to a secure exercise run.
Keep in mind rabbits are most active in the early mornings and late evenings and may become frustrated if confined to a smaller living area when they most want to be running and playing.

Recommended Hutch/Cage Sizes

These recommendations for accommodation size are based on The Rabbit Code of Practice for the Animal Welfare Act 2006 which states:
The living area should be as large as possible. At least:
  • big enough for your rabbit to lie down and stretch out comfortably in all directions;
  • be high enough for it to stand up on its back legs without its ears touching the top; and
  • be long enough so that it can move around, feed and drink. As a guide, your rabbit should be able to take three hops from one end to another as a minimum.
Your rabbit should have daily access to a run where it can run and jump. The run should be as large as possible to allow your rabbit to stretch upwards to full height and to run, as opposed to just hop.
The RWA (UK) recommend a minimum hutch size of 6' x 2' x 2' with the addition of an exercise run of 8'x4' to meet the duty of care requirements under the Animal Welfare Act. The RSPCA are currently gathering evidence and will present guidelines in 2014.

  http://www.therabbithouse.com/guide_size.asp